Re: [T3] engine diagnosis

[<veedub@apartment101.com>]

<x-charset iso-8859-1>When I say reground, I actually mean "cleaning up" the surfaces, not
actually regrinding them.  I guess polishing would have been a better word
choice.

Jason


----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Park" <topnotch@nycap.rr.com>
To: "T3 List (E-mail)" <type3@vwtype3.org>
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 7:05 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] engine diagnosis


> Never use a reground crank that is ground more than .010 under... more
than
> that and youre through the hardness layer and I can personally vouch for
> that having used a .030 once!
>
> I wouldnt use a reground cam eather... I mean, since the wear is on the
tops
> of the lobes, and regrinding can only make the lobes flatter, and a
flatter
> cam will affect performance (cut the top end power off) how can this be an
> acceptable thing?? cam lobe design and shape is critical to the desired
> performance of an engine so I wouldnt want a misshapen one in there.
>
> This is mentioning nothing of the surface hardening ... others opinions?
>
> Keith
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <veedub@apartment101.com>
> To: T3 List (E-mail) <type3@vwtype3.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 3:18 PM
> Subject: Re: [T3] engine diagnosis
>
>
> > I just talked to the machinist - the news was grimmer than we initially
> > thought:
> >
> > 1.    The case is in good condition with a previous .020 line bore
> > (standard).
> > 2.    The crank is okay, but shows .3 wear (the max), so the life span
is
> > probably short.  Will replace with another reground crank.
> > 3.  The rods are fine.
> > 4.   Will replace CAM and LIFTERS with VW (reground CAM)
> > 5.  The main, rod, and cam bearings will all be replaced.
> >
> > Nothing tragic, but about $250 worth.  Now let's recap the engine after
> the
> > rebuild:
> >
> > New case, reground crank, new cam, new bearings, lifters, seals,
> cylinders,
> > pistons, rings, rod inserts, dual solex carbs, quiet pack exhaust, hot
> > dipped (but not rebuilt) heads, new clutch and a whole lotta elbow
grease.
> >
> > Should I consider anything else during this rebuild?  Clean the tank?
> Change
> > fuel filters?  Etc.
> >
> > I really appreciate all of the cam advice you guys have given me since
my
> > last post.  Thank you very much.
> >
> > Jason
> > 68 Notch
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
> > To: "T3 List (E-mail)" <type3@vwtype3.org>
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 9:10 AM
> > Subject: Re: [T3] engine diagnosis
> >
> >
> > > On 30 Oct 2001, at 20:17, Keith Park wrote:
> > >
> > > > You may want to read Bergs writings on the cams. He goes through
> > painstaking
> > > > procedures for breaking in new cams these days and NOTHING will ruin
a
> > cam
> > > > faster than the cheap non-German lifters... probably your entire
> problem
> > > > here.
> > >
> > > I actually got to talk with Gene a few years ago about this. Here's
what
> > he
> > > had to say. Keep in mind that this was ~15 years ago and everything's
> > > changed since then:
> > >
> > > About cams: All the world's sources of VW cams can be divided into 2
> > > groups, Isky and various OEM makers around the world. Their cams all
> have
> > > the same metallurgy, so you can choose any cam you want without
concern
> > > for where it comes from.
> > >
> > > About lifters: There are many VW lifter manufacturers around the
world,
> > and
> > > there are almost as many kinds of metallurgy in the lifters they
> produce.
> > If
> > > you want a lifter that will work with your VW cam, however, there are
> only
> > 2
> > > sources that you can buy from with confidence, either OE VW, from a
> dealer
> > > (or from Berg, his were OE VW at that time) or you can buy the 3 piece
> > > Brazilian lifters that come in the blue and white Eaton box. The
latter
> > were
> > > somewhat lighter, but they carry a downside in that there is a little
> snap
> > ring
> > > inside them which can work loose and then work its way thru the filter
> > screen
> > > and destroy an oil pump. This doesn't happen often; I have an engine
> that
> > > went 100kmi with these with no problem.
> > >
> > > The lifters which I had bought came in a plain brown wrapper marked
> simply
> > > "Made in W. Germany." They were junk and Gene knew all about them. He
> > > told me that they were too soft and just how soft they were. I
measured
> it
> > on
> > > a Rockwell tester we had at work and he was exactly right. The OE
lifter
> > that
> > > I measured was harder, right where Gene said it would be.
> > >
> > > I've followed Gene's advice since then and never been burned again.
> > >
> > > Today's story is different, however. The new cams are no longer made
> with
> > > the same metallurgy and Berg has had a terrible time getting a quality
> > > product that they can sell with confidence. I don't think there's much
> > they
> > > can do about it since they just don't have enough buying power to
> dictate
> > to
> > > the manufacturer's what they should produce. I think it's all about
the
> > fact
> > > that there are few aircooled VWs made in the world today, so VW
doesn't
> > > have the clout it used to, but I've got to wonder what the BeetleMex
> > engines
> > > use.
> > >
> > > Myself, I stick to reusing good used stock VW cams and Berg lifters.
If
> > you
> > > want a performance cam I don't know what you can do. I would at least
> ask
> > > the cam maker what he recommended for lifters and see if you can
> > > guarantee compatability if you buy both from him.
> > >
> > > -
> > > Jim Adney
> > > jadney@vwtype3.org
> > > Madison, WI 53711-3054
> > > USA
> > >
> > > -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

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