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A while back I mentioned cracking heads that I had experienced on some new ones. Well I like to drive very fast (75-90 mph) and force my engine to perform so I tuned up my EFI balanced my engine and performed some EFI and some spark tricks ( adding monster coil, torquemaster plugs, Electronic ignition, more fuel pressure and adjusted pressure sensor more on the rich side. I even shift my autotranny like a stickshift (I have always done this with auto detroit monsters, its fun) Well this stuff improved my zoom but something was missing, it did not feel as speedy as It should but was quite fast. Well some dude on this list said that my total advance should not be 23 or 24 and that this would cause some overheating. I installed a temp gage to see how much heat my heads were getting, I documented it and thought the values were correct for me and even posted this on this list. When I left my autotranny in first gear, I found the engine hesitated after 32 miles an hour in second gear the engine hesitated just after 50 miles an hour. Advertized, these trannys should downshift at 65 and stay in until 75 mph and without an unbalanced crank. The hesitation should not exist. I just thought that the speed cutoff and the power was typical of aircooled engines since this was my first. Low power and overheating was just something to live with when going stock, (did zoom good anyhow). Well this weekend I used a timing light to check my timing, It checked out ok at 5 degrees but I remembered about the guy who mentioned "total advance", well I procceded to manually accelerate my engine pretty high 4000-5000+ rpm and it did not feel right so I checked the engine with a timing light and found that at 5500? rpm (hesitating) my timing only advanced two degrees. What the blazes was going on, I had a good vacume advance and always oiled my centrifuge advance. Well I proceeded to tear down my distributor into itty bitty peices. The most difficult part to tear down was the cam assembly shaft (where points open and close) This assembly should be loose and must move freely with ease but the shaft was stuck. To remove this assembly I had to remove that little felt plug on top and spend a half hour extracting the ring clip that held it in place using two micro screwdrivers. I could not slide the assembly out so left the distributor in gasoline for two hours. As I waited I found that the vacume advance assembly, that moves the the points to a higher timing number, was stuck with grease that was stone. My diaphram was good, it moved its shaft when vacume applied but I never verified that it actually moved points. Later I was able to pull the assembly out and found that it was corroded together and probably has not moved years before I got the car. I cleaned the corrosion on both ajoining sliding peices. I proceeded to carefully inspect the EFI points and assembly and found that the dist had a leather wiper for the EFI cam and it had absorbed corrosion, this can grind my EFI cam down. I also found that the EFI points were a little slow in closing , gummy grease in the points hinge keeping the rpm down. After I put the dist back together the engine zoomed up very smoothly as fast it could go ,6000 + ? , with no load. It gave me very good advance up to 22 percent as per the Bently manual. This morning I drove my car down the Freeway and took off from stoplights, my car felt like a speedy sportscar. It now has that Porsche feeling. I am so happy that I finally got more zoom in my car. My car runs faster, heads are 25 to 50 degrees cooler and I think my gas mileage will be even better if I tweek the fuel mixture on my pressure sensor back to the way it should be. Sidenote: Someone rearended my car yesterday with their truck and took off, they broke one of my reverse lights, does anyone have one of these around you can sell me? LEON MARTINEZ martinezl@ftscpac.navy.mil 1969 SQUAREBACK EFI/AUTO SAN DIEGO AND TIJUANA ------------------------------------------------------------------- Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe