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OK, Mark, you doing everything right, if a rivit on the points has a high resistance then when the contacts are closed (with the harness unplugged) you will get a high resistance between the center lug and that side, perhaps 2 or 3 ohms or more instead of less than one. Jim, see what you think of this theory too... (im just so full of theories, one of them has to be right!) 2 of the injectors fire at just the right time when the intake valve opens, 2 fire at the wrong time and that mixture has to sit there just a little before getting sucked in. SO... if the engine is running too rich or perhaps too lean it may, at idle, stop firing on the 2 poorly timed injectors and idle on the other 2, especially after things warm up cause the warmup on the injection tends to keep things a bit rich. Once the RPM increases this theory goes away as the fuel doesnt sit around long enough before the intake valve opens, the car will the run on all 4 but perhaps not to the power it should cause its running a bit lean. This could be a pressure sensor problem, try swapping that out now, or could be a brain. Question is HOW DOES IT DRIVE WHEN ITS WARMED UP? once it starts idling on the 2? I remember the idling on 2 problem many hears ago, I dont remember the outcome, but I think it was a mixture problem... you can replace the head temp sens with a 5K potentiometer and then manually control the warmup mixture curve, down to about 60 ohms when hot... THEN, once the problem starts richen up the mixture but increasing the resistance and see if it evens out... if it does WALLA... you then know its not a wiring problem with the trigger points or injectors! and you need to see why the mixture is too lean. Whew!... and another 36 message to go through before "wildest police videos" Keith ------------------------------------------------------------------- List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org