[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]
At 09:37 AM 4/16/2001 -0500, Jim Adney wrote: >Rust thru seldom happens right straight thru panel. It ALWAYS >happens at a seam where water can seep in by capillary action >and get trapped between 2 or more layer of metal. At the front and >top of the rear fender well you will find a number of places where >multiple sheets meet and join. These joints are usually sealed with >undercoating or tar. This stuff hardens in time and pulls away from >the underlying metal, leaving another place where capillary action >can cause water to accumulate. Go under there and pull off all the >loose stuff you can find. You will discover places where the >underlying metal is gone. Hi All- Well, after pulling out *everything* in the interior (incl rear seat and armrests) in search of the leak spot Jim suggested I try to find (I had previously thought my rust thru happened under the battery) I found the culprit on the passenger side, and is it UG-LY. Basically it was in the exact spot Jim described... I've got a 2 foot long "vein" of rust (now a 1/4 inch gap after I used a brush and screwdriver to remove the powdered/rusted/decayed former-metal) running from just above the point where the armrest meets the fender well, continuing down behind the seatback attachment point and ending up in an ugly hole directly below the seatback attachment point on the side wall. Furthermore, I noticed that there is light rust running the rest of the way around the fender well all the way back to the rear hatch (all on the right/passenger side). Thus, now in addition to replacing the passenger floorpan between the backseat footwell and the battery area I've got to deal with this rust zone as well. I take it I will need to pull off the rear fender and the tire to get a good look at the extent of the rust, but beyond that I'm not sure what needs to happen. Based on information I've gleaned from Jim's last response and related responses like Toby's, I assume I will need to have the body shop (the same place doing the floorpan) excise the rusted areas and replace them with sheet metal. I would then paint the whole area (including lightly rusted areas that haven't rusted through) with POR-15, then apply the roofing tar w/ fiberglass cloth on the outside in the wheel well. Does this sound right? Any hints/tips/warnings? TIA everybody and thanks again Jim! David Y. 68 Square PS I am really bummed about this especially since it all happened "on my watch." It's not as much the time or the money, but rather the POINT. I grew up in the square and have been the car's custodian since 1984 when my parents (the original owners) let me have it, and I have thought over the years that I have taken great care of it: despite its 230K miles it's been in California its whole life, and I can count the times it was driven in the snow. Anyway, I thought it was essentially "rust free". As if! Before ripping out my carpet a few weeks ago to put in the new kit I could never have dreamed I had such extensive rust damage... some custodian I am! My lifelong friend is ailing and it's all my fault!!!!!!!!!! <sniffle> :( ------------------------------------------------------------------- Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/