Re: [T3] stripped head stud, and accompanying self-pity..

["Jim Adney" <jradney@facstaff.wisc.edu>]

On 26 Mar 00, at 1:39, Mike Wodkowski wrote:

> Its the stud next to #4 cylinder. I got the 2 nuts locked and TWISTED the
> bottom one with all my might - the top nut wasn't moving and the bottom one
> was

I'm afraid I have no good words of encouragement to offer. I have 
always found these studs to be immovable, in fact, I'm really 
surprised that you didn't break one off and that you managed to get 3 
of them out.

My advise would be to put an isolator under the right carb and none 
under the left. Just put that side back together and hope that you 
can get the bunged up threads to hold on the one bad stud.

In my experience, the only way to get these studs out is to drill 
them out. I would only try this with the head off the engine if I 
could possibly help it. Steel studs in aluminum tend to bind up. 
While heat will help with steel in steel, the alum seems to soften 
and just gum up more. I have a very good machine shop here which I 
take these things to. He puts the head in his "head machine", tilts 
the head til the stud is vertical, grinds the stud down flush, then 
drills it out. If we're lucky we can then pick up the old thread, if 
not, I Heli-coil it. This is not something you want to get into right 
now.

Sorry, but since you still have something of a stud there I think you 
should just quit.

Finish this job someday later, when you have the engine out and apart 
for a planned rebuild.

-
Jim Adney, Associate Researcher
Plasma Physics Group, Department of Physics
University of Wisconsin
Madison, Wisconsin, USA

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