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Hi Õø.× y! (Hi Dr Nick) Shopping for a new exhaust, and out of curiosity and hopefulness for better quality, I ordered the Gene Berg system for type 3. It's on and has been around the block a few times, so I thought I'd shove some observations down the collective gullet in case anyone is considering the same setup. The cost was $109, took a week to get it to me. Total cost was about $125 with prepping and paint. They will ceramic coat it there prior to shipping if you want to pay to have it done, I didn't ask how much. Things I like: The muffler came unpainted, spared me the hassle of sandblasting it prior to applying hi temp flat black paint (VHT Flame Proof, from the VWFLAPS). They also included some nice tips on how to properly cure hi temp paint. It feels very sturdy, no flex or bounce like my former extractor (EMPI), and I like the fact that it has a strap that goes all the way around the muffler to support it. The muffler is low enough that it clears the rear skirt. My old muffler would hit it. Came with head port gaskets (asbestos, not metal sandwiched asbestos) and the flange gasket, plus shiny nuts and bolts. They put some candy in with my packing list. Things I didn't like: The extractor came painted (primed?). Why they ship mufflers unpainted and not the extractors, I don't know. It took a lot of time and all of a 75 pound bag of sand to blast it clean. The work seems to be paying off though, several short trips around town and a trip down the highway and it hasn't burned off yet. It eventually will because rust will form somewhere, but maybe I've added some time to it's life. The permanently mounted fresh air tubes were such a hassle I cut them off. You gotta be an octopus to get it all together, and the mounting rings scratched up the paint around them, potentially ruining all the work I put into it. The pipe coming off #2 (or is it 4?) is veeeerrrry close to the rubber intake bellows for the cooling fan. So close that I can smell it burning. There is room to put the pipe further awaÿX¶¥ der why they didn't. Probably to make it all rigid. No doubt there's a big written diatribe somewhere about how you MUST do it this way yada yada down at Berg. The shiny nut and bolt for the support strap was too short, I used a different one. The strap bolted to a tab welded to the pipe, I expect this will eventually break off just like my old one did. The crush rings and clamps for the heater box ends were not included, though they say you can use regular ones (with modification, Berg pipes are larger diameter). The noise level is about on par with my old system, not loud, but not OEM quiet either. Nothing wrong with that. No improvement in performance, other than what you would expect from having a solid exhaust as opposed to one with a big patched hole in it. No change in oil/head temps. Side bitch: Those damn 12mm copper lock nuts for exhaust studs. I tried using them the last time I put my exhaust on, and while they weren't rusted or corroded, the studs were. 3 of the four exhaust studs came out with the nuts. I went back to regular 13mm non locking nuts, and I'll save the 12mm's for my oil filler tube. I don't regret buying it, but for half the price I'll probably give the 4 tip a try next time. Especially since the painting went so well. We'll see how it looks in two years. I make no claims at being an expert, I'm just a guy who has screwed up enough stuff over the years to know the difference. My observations are to be taken for what they are worth to ya. Curt 70 sb 66/71 busses. ------------------------------------------------------------------- List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org