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An intermittant cyl head temp sens will stop you cold and the intermittant may be in the sensor. Try replacing it with a 60 ohm resistor when the car is warmed up. Clean the trigger points?? they could do this. If your press sensor is full of oil it may be sluggish or stickey and cause problems. Check the FI grounds on the breather and near the distributor and make sure the plug into the trigger points is in the correct wayÄ= ---------- > From: Jake Kooser <jake_k@ibm.net> > To: Type III mailing list <type3@vwtype3.org> > Subject: RE: [T3] drove the fastback, finally!!! JUMBO POST > Date: Friday, March 26, 1999 6:01 PM > > I didn't really want to go to work this morning. As it turns out, neither > did my fastback. > > Here we go... Jumped in the car, tuned out the sewing machine noise as > being normal due to no real sound damping. I made it about 6 of the 10 > miles, and it stalled for no apparent reason at a stop light. Got it > restarted with some difficulty and took the "least traffic" fork of the > road. About another mile up the road, it began running like total crap - > sputtering a bit like it was missing, little backfire pops on a pretty > consistent basis. The timing was set correctly before I decided to drive > it - I could reach in through the window and start it. I appropriately > freaked out and parked it immediately. Not having tools (oh, stupid, stupid > boy!) or time this morning, I regretfully decided to abandon ship after > wiggling some wires and disconnecting the cold start injector (in case it > was stuck). I noticed that when I checked the connection to the cylinder > head temp sender, the car was able to restart. I had some problems earlier > in the driveway (weeks ago) when the car wouldn't start and it helped when I > cleaned that connection really well. Suspect #1? > > When it started running really badly, I noticed that the gas pedal wasn't > giving the desired results. I mean, when I stepped on the gas, the engine > didn't seem to want to accelerate, and then ultimately, run at all. Kind of > like when you run out of gas - it just kind of wanted to fade out and die. > No dramatic effects, just died out slowly. I checked the fuel pressure on > the day I was playing with my fuel injection tester - it WAS 30 PSI. I plan > on rechecking it this weekend to see if pump or regulator are on their way > out. Suspect #2? > > <Jim>As long as the cooling air is being sucked in through thÙ^§g > >bellows at the rear and coming from the proper intake louvers there > >should be no problem.</Jim> > > I thought that was the case. When it died, that's one of the first things I > checked for was overheating. The engine did not feel even as hot as my > super beetle engine gets on the way to work. I used that check to rule out > timing as an issue - combined with the fact that I had previously set it. > > <Jim>Few people realize that their engines put out more power in heat than > >in mechanical HP; yes, they are less than 50% efficient.</Jim> > > Oh yeah, I believe that now. I was sweating even before the engine started > freaking out. > > <Jim>If this is a new engine, </Jim> > > Nyet. This engine is the one from my '71 Squareback, using the '73 > fastback's throttle position switch and manifold pressure sensor. Until > now, the car was believing everything was cool. Which brings me to another > suspect, what about the wiring on the car itself? My electronics training > makes me hesitate on this one, but I really don't know the car as well as I > know the engine. > > On the way home from work, a friend helped me rescue the car. We got it to > start, but it still didn't sound too happy. When it was still pretty cold, > it didn't have stunning performance, but at least it ran. I let it idle for > a few minutes and took more time for problem diagnosis. I noticed that > while removing injector connections with the engine running, #2 and #4 > didn't have nearly as much effect as removing #1 and #3. Bentley says > they're paired #1 and #4; and #2 and #3. Doesn't match the problem, but > that's what I saw. I'll check the wires to make sure I don't have a set of > injector plugs crossed. Also, I thought the injector points might not be > working properly. A combination of the two might cause this situation. I > could touch the exhausts right at the head on #2 and #4 while it was > running. Later after about 5 miles of very nervous driving back towards > home, they were much warmer (hžzR.I still suspect that they are not > firing properly. The car got tired of running after about that distance so > we towed it the last 1/4 mile or so. We didn't tow it the entire distance > due to traffic. Now it's at my friend's house and his dad may look at it > tomorrow, although I really kind of dread that - he's a long time type I > fanatic and I don't know how much he can do, good or bad. > > <Jim>Why is that deck gone?</Jim> > > The DPO didn't seem to be alarmed by a trunk full of water from cracked > window seals and a missing trunk seal. > > Sorry about the huge post, maybe I'll be the first one to get sifted out by > Greg's new filter. I thought it would be of good general interest for those > with FI or thinking about it. Even with having to push the car by hand > twice, it was still more fun than the best drive in the super beetle! > > Jake Kooser > > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/