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does anyone know where i could find a manual for my '69 fastback? i've looked everywhere, and nobody has it.
> **--------- Original Message follows...
>Content-Type: text/plain
type3-d Digest Volume 99 : Issue 149
Today's Topics:
[T3] antennae [ peidsys@sag.support.net (Ann Krayna ]
Re: [T3] The leans etc.. [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
RE: [T3] Dead End! [ "Erkson, Toby" <toby.erkson@intel.c ]
Re: [T3] Body Work (kinda long) [ "Nico teWinkel" <nico@penetics.com> ]
[t3] Disc brake conversion [ VolksTron@aol.com ]
[T3] FI Fuel Line Routing Queries (' [ Forsman/Harris <akatieh@jhunix.hcf. ]
Re: [T3] !!!Black Hole sighting...SH [ Steven Ayres <comwest@well.com> ]
Re: [T3] Body Work [ Steven Ayres <comwest@well.com> ]
Re: [T3] Electrical gremlins [ I4VW@aol.com ]
Re: [T3] To jack or not to jack.... [ I4VW@aol.com ]
fi stuff [ "Jorgensen" <jorge@sisna.com> ]
Re: [T3] antennae [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
Re: [T3] Anyone got them cool seat b [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
Re: [T3] Dead End! [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
Re: [T3] AT Modulators [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
Re: [T3] FI Fuel Line Routing Querie [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
Re: [T3] To jack or not to jack.... [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
Re: [T3] Clink clink... aw sh!^!! [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
Re: [T3] FI Fuel Line Routing Querie [ "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
Re: [T3] Sorry, but I just have to v„ø”; Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
[T3] Front suspension [ "Michael Geurink" <geurink_brasil@b ]
[T3] Interesting item on eBay web si [ jadney@vwtype3.org ]
[T3] T3 life in WI [ JT <johnc@geekopolis.com> ]
[T3] Sold [ "Ginger D.&Peter P." <gingerd@telep ]
Re: [T3] Sold [ Allen Moore <concept@compassnet.com ]
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 16:07:16 -0800
From: peidsys@sag.support.net (Ann Kraynak)
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] antennae
Message-ID: <19990319000029609.AAA203@cybercafe>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I'm sorry, I thought I made it clear this is a type 3 question. The whole
problem started when I tried a type I replacement CAUSE they were so cheap
compared to type 3's. The type I gfeneric $5 replacement i bought does NOT
work for type 3's. Does anyone know wheteher I just got ripped or are they
really intechangeable as Sonnyboy8 asserts.
Thanks
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 18:16:46 -0600
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] The leans etc..
Message-Id: <199903190015.SAA124102@mail1.doit.wisc.edu>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
On 17 Mar 99, at 19:42, oligeo wrote:
> My 71 autosquare, leans a little to the right. When I got the car, it
> didn't do that until I removed the "spring over" shocks that were worn-out.
> I put stock type shocks on and then noticed the tilt.
A noticable tilt usually means that one of the torsion bars is
cracked. It will break someday, but it could be a couple of years
down the road. Of course this could also be due to someone who
replaced a bar and didn't bother to adjust it correctly.
> Also is it normal to
> get a little bit of a flicker from the oil press. light when the car is
> warmed up( I mean really warm) while at a red light in gear with foot on the
> brake. It goes out if you put it in neutral allowing the idle to
go up.
This is normal for an old engine, nothinïMýØ ry about. You might
want to make sure that you're using the right weight of oil, and that
your idle is set correctly.
Jim
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Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 16:18:56 -0800
From: "Erkson, Toby" <toby.erkson@intel.com>
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: RE: [T3] Dead End!
Message-ID: <51C0AF25889FD211AC3F00A0C984090D6A181D@orsmsx50.jf.intel.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Hmm, the exact/identical/same thing happened to me and my shadow, er,
Porsche 914 (stock FI T4 engine, close enough). Superduper experienced
mechanics couldn't figure it out, and my wiring was in good shape, as was my
new air flow meter and fuel pump and relays (see comment below about cheap
and expensive routes). After some talk with the 914 email list I installed
a new head temperature sender. Problem solved, period! If the sender is
bad or no good then the engine won't start. If the wire is broken or shorts
against cooling tin, the engine won't work. I'd be at a stop light then,
zap, engine dead...and it won't start...and people are honking...after
several tries it'd fire back up...and die while I was driving...then start
back up...and be fine for a while...maddening!
Not knowing exactly what's going on with your system it's hard to dispense
advice. Personally, I'd make sure the fuel filter wasn't full of crap -- if
suspect then just replace, they're cheap. Cheap, by the way, is the first
route before expensive ("duuuh, I think it's the fuel pump so let's replace
that (since it's your money and not mine) and see what happens" is the
expensive way). Really, though, you should make sure the FI wiring is well
protected and your electrical grounds are clean since the FI system is
sensitive to voltage.
Oh phooey, does the D-Jetronic FI sy 3Rœ a head temp sensor? I know the
L-Jetronic system does...
Toby "babbling along" Erkson
air_cooled_nut@pobox.com <-- Please use this address for email
'72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L, Berg five-speed
'75 Porsche 914 1.8L, R.I.P., ORPCA member
'95 VW Jetta III GL 2.0L, P-Chipped, Jamex sport suspension
Portland, Oregon, http://www.pobox.com/~toby_erkson/
> -----Original Message-----
> OK. I need you guys expertise! I have had my 72
> Square in the shop
> for 3 weeks! I'm going to pick it up tomorrow for no charge
> because the
> mechanic (who says he has worked on these cars since their
> creation) could
> not figure out what was wrong. Maybe you can give me some
> ideas to throw at
> him tomorrow
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 17:44:16 -0800
From: "Nico teWinkel" <nico@penetics.com>
To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
Subject: Re: [T3] Body Work (kinda long)
Message-ID: <052f01be71a9$ffd42ee0$627035d1@nico>
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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I really like the idea of doing it all yourself.
The bodywork is taking me forever, but like you said: if you do it yourself,
it will be cheap and eventually you'll have a decent job (with enough
patience) that may actually be better than some of those cheap shops out
there.
I kinda wanted to do my own painting as well, but the spraypaint worries
me - where can I do this without painting the neighbours' cars, houses,
pets, children etc. at the same time? Doesn't spraypainting cause a cloud of
spray? I'm assuming my garage would be too tiny for that stuff.
I think if I had a big enough shop I would go for it. oh well, I still have
some time to figure that out I guess.
For me, everything else is fair game for do-it-myself :)
Cheers,
-Nico
-----Original Message-----
From: Phil Dillard <dillard@suu.edu>
>I think that one can, na$.ý D, do some of his/her minor body work
(dings, dents,
>scratches, minor rust, etc.), priming, and shooting the color coat. My
arguments follow:
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 20:49:11 EST
From: VolksTron@aol.com
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: [t3] Disc brake conversion
Message-ID: <1cb97105.36f1ad17@aol.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
Hey guys,
Anyone got any info on converting a 72 SB reaer drums to discs?
please let me know...
two-bit
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 20:45:08 -0400
From: Forsman/Harris <akatieh@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu>
To: stans4@ix.netcom.com, type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] FI Fuel Line Routing Queries ('73)
Message-ID: <36F19DF5.7FEC7D71@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
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Stan wrote:
"On every FI T3 I've seen, the damper was on the front side and hoses
went back to the pump on one side and to the pressure line going to the
engine on the other."
Why run hose to the front of the beam just to put the dampner there?
"... The filter bracket is missing on many T3s, I had a hard time
finding one. In which case, the filter just dangles, too. ..."
I have two extra filter brackets, BTW, in case there's anyone else out
there who'd like to put an end to their filter dangling.
"... I used some caterpillar grommet material I got from an electronics
place to cover the edges of the holes, the fuel line is cloth covered,
but I still wanted some chafe protection. ..."
I agree entirely. I have one original grommet, and planned to dig
around in my box of unsorted rubber bits for another like it. I'm leery
of highpa$| e gas spraying around.
"... Make sure you're hooked to the right tube under there, there's two
on an FI fuel tank. One has a "sock" screen filter on it(replace it
now), ...."
Are these available? I just noticed that sock this evening, after I
pulled out my fuel guage sender, which had become immobilized by the goo
(BTW, earlier I described it as "black" and "tar like," though closer
inspection of a thin smear of the stuff showed it to be a reddish
brown. The glop coming out the gas tank nipples looked darker).
Anyway, I had figured I would just clean it in whatever stuff dissolves
the goo.
"... The third outlet on the pump is a pressure relief .... Kind of a
safety thing."
Hmm. I wonder how much pressure pump produces, given a blockage. That
might explain why, when I first got the pump running, the pressure line
from the pump popped off the front end of the metal line through the
tunnel. Does anyone know what the difference was that required such a
feature on the T3 but not for the fuel supply for the late busses?
"... A FI tank has a collar around the outlet which could get damaged.
I think its purpose is to keep fuel flowing when there isn't much left
in the tank. ...."
Yes, the late bus tanks have a baffle also. It helps to keep the pump
from sucking air into the loop when you are cornering hard (especially
necessary if your type3 has an anti- sway bar!) or, in the case of a
bus, careening wildly.
"... Hope all this helps out. ..."
Yes, indeedy.
Eric Forsman '73 Square
Baltimore, MD
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 18:08:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Steven Ayres <comwest@well.com>
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] !!!Black Hole sighting...SHUDDER
Message-Id: <199903190208.SAA27700@well.com>
BillN=> What year/years were these things available?
'51-'54. Discontinued just before Kaiser went under in '55.
Steven Ayres, Presco é(0 6 343
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 18:08:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Steven Ayres <comwest@well.com>
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Body Work
Message-Id: <199903190208.SAA27809@well.com>
PhilD=> I think that do your own body work/painting is achieveable and
=> rewarding. ... I await the collective moans ...
I agree with you, phil. The problem is that it's so easy to get in over
your head, and most people who are working on VWs instead of Porsches
can't afford expensive mistakes. For the record I would encourage anyone
to study up on body work, it is absolutely doable and the world needs
more people who can do it. Do *not*, however, think you can just grab a
hammer and a tub of Bondo from Wal-Mart and do a clean job. Patience and
close attention to detail are required, and a lot of people don't have
the free time we old farts do, or just plain aren't inclined that way.
Steven Ayres, Prescott AZ
'66 Grosse Karmann
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 21:33:13 EST
From: I4VW@aol.com
To: tardemalynunca@yahoo.com, type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Electrical gremlins
Message-ID: <5beb5ae7.36f1b769@aol.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
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In a message dated 99-03-18 01:20:57 EST, tardemalynunca@yahoo.com writes:
> And when I turn on the lights, fuel gauge gets pegged at F.
Eduardo,
The fuel guage will deflect/peg to F if the brown wire that connects to
the terminal on the fuel sending unit gets grounded. Maybe some place to
start.
Tom
'68 Fastback (Thumper)
'70 Bug (Bailey)
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 21:50:26 EST
From: I4VW@aol.com
To: beel@avicom.net, type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] To jack or not to jack....
Message-ID: <d2de2734.36f1bb72@aol.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
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In a message dated 99-03-18 18:44:24 EST, beel@avicom.net writes:
> When Muir says not to jack the car up when doing a valve adjustment, it's
> only for safety purposes right?
Bill,
Jacking up a car will not affect the valves.
Tom
'68 Fastback (Thumper)
'70 Bug (Bailey)
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 20:37:13 -0700
From: "Jorgensen" <jorge@sisna.com>
To: <type3-d@vwtype3.org>
Subject: fi stuff
Message-ID: <016601be71b9$c9316aa0$0a000003@oemcomputer>
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i am looking fo any fi stuff i can get my hands on. i would really like a
complete working setup. the po got rid of it and cut the wires about 1 foot
into the engine compartment so i still have the computer and ends of wires.
also has any one had anyluck with points replacement or distributorless
ignition?
hans
73' thing
70' square
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 23:51:28 -0600
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] antennae
Message-Id: <199903190550.XAA165718@mail1.doit.wisc.edu>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
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On 18 Mar 99, at 16:07, Ann Kraynak wrote:
> I'm sorry, I thought I made it clear this is a type 3 question. The whole
> problem started when I tried a type I replacement CAUSE they were so cheap
> compared to type 3's. The type I gfeneric $5 replacement i bought does NOT
> work for type 3's. Does anyone know wheteher I just got ripped or are they
> really intechangeable as Sonnyboy8 asserts.
This is a type 3 list, so I think most of us as˜ˆÀB is was a type
3 question. To the best of my knowledge both types used the same
antenna from 67-on. If you got something that didn't work, then there
must be some other problem.
What year is your type 3, and what kind of antenna did you get that
did not work? Exactly what was wrong with it?
Jim
-
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 23:51:28 -0600
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Anyone got them cool seat belts??
Message-Id: <199903190550.XAA65212@mail1.doit.wisc.edu>
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On 18 Mar 99, at 11:09, Bill Niles wrote:
> Does anyone know if this style had a name? Is it possible to get some
> decent after market stuff? Or even original for that matter. From looking
> at the setup they look not only functional but very stylish. If anyone has
> an idea of what I'm talking about please let me know.
What year? I probably have some. These are called lap and shoulder
belts, or 3-point belts.
Jim
-
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 23:51:28 -0600
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Dead End!
Message-Id: <199903190550.XAA116014@mail1.doit.wisc.edu>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
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On 18 Mar 99, at 17:01, Donovan_Rogers@Dell.com wrote:
> The problem is that my baby will not stay running once it has been
> started, SOMETIMES. The first start of the day will be fine. HoweØ» ð fter I leave it alone for a while (anywhere from 10 to 60 min.) the game
> begins.
Are you SURE that it is a fuel problem? Do you still have spark? It's
easy to suspect that the culprit is the part you least understand.
As for the FI, have you cleaned the trigger points? Is the fuel pump
still running when the car quits? Does it quit suddenly or lose power
over a few seconds? Do you hear relays clicking as it dies? With the
key on do the injectors click when you depress the throttle? (when it
doesn't want to run)
Jim
Jim
-
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Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 23:51:28 -0600
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] AT Modulators
Message-Id: <199903190550.XAA179778@mail1.doit.wisc.edu>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
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On 18 Mar 99, at 10:38, Raoul O'Connell wrote:
> My mechanic told me my vacumn modulator was leaking and
> should be replaced. He thought it might be responsible for the fact my
> trnasmission sorta snaps back hard when I put it into reverse from park
> and for the fact it sometimes (not often) shifts kinda hard.
The hard shifting could be a mis-adjusted VM or too high an idle. If
you never have to replenish the ATF then you can't have too bad a
leak.
To check for a leaky VM diaphram do this test: In warm weather, pull
the hose off the VW and let all the accumulated oil drain out of the
hose. Put the hose back on. If there is no oil to drain, you have no
leak.
If there was oil, drive the car for a week and repeat to see how much
oil accumulates in that week. If it is less than a teaspoon, ignore
it. If it seems marginal, check it again in a week.
Jim
-
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Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Р̬ n, USA
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 23:51:28 -0600
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] FI Fuel Line Routing Queries ('73)
Message-Id: <199903190550.XAA197718@mail1.doit.wisc.edu>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
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On 18 Mar 99, at 10:52, Forsman/Harris wrote:
> There are two holes in the fuel pump mounting plate
Originally:
The pressure output hose from the pump goes out one of those holes,
through the damper, back through the other hole, and to the left fuel
line.
I now suggest:
Forget the damper and the two holes. Route the hose directly to the
left fuel line.
> Also, it's not clear to me where to position the fuel dampner, other
> than the fact that it goes between the fuel pump and the left (pressure)
> line through the tunnel. Is there supposed to be some sort of mounting
> bracket I'm missing, or is the electrical tape spider's web stock?
The two holes above "hold" it.
> Finally, can somebody explain to me the reason for the three
> inlet/outlet pump, and the seemingly extraneous line from the low
> pressure return line to the pump. The system I'm more (slightly)
> familiar with is the late bus one, which runs all the fuel back through
> the tank to function as a heat sink and to keep the pump from recycling
> air bubbles--or so I've heard.
1) intake from gas tank connection with hex nut via fuel filter
2) pressure output (via damper) to the left fuel line
3) overpressure bleedoff line routes back to the tank in case a
pressure line gets pinched somewhere.
> BTW, was is the approved procedure from removing the gooey black tar
> stuff that is the product of bad gas that has sat in the tank for years?
If it's mild, ignore it. Otherwise you try calling radiator shops.
Many of them do this service.
Jim
-
*******â@ßB ****************
Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 23:51:27 -0600
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] To jack or not to jack....
Message-Id: <199903190550.XAA179830@mail1.doit.wisc.edu>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
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On 18 Mar 99, at 16:39, Bill Niles wrote:
> When Muir says not to jack the car up when doing a valve adjustment, it's
> only for safety purposes right?
Yes, some prefer to jack, but it is not necessary. I never do, but
just because I have gotten used to doing it on the ground and it
saves the time that jacking takes. I use a Masonite sheet to slide
around on. It is thinner than the traditional creeper.
Jim
-
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Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 23:51:29 -0600
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Clink clink... aw sh!^!!
Message-Id: <199903190550.XAA154776@mail1.doit.wisc.edu>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
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On 18 Mar 99, at 0:21, Justin wrote:
> Tried
> to start a nut on about 2 threads of the stud. Slips... Makes a
> perfect back flip with a half-twist right down that PR tube. Nary a
> splash - it's a 10!! And we all know where the PR tubes go...
Here's what I do when putting the heads on:
Slip the head onto the studs, but far enough that the PR tubes can
still slip in. Then slip one PR tube at a time into place and skewer
a PR through it so it can't fall back out. Once all 4 tubes are in
place IU»L» gle (that's the tech term) them around until they are
all lined up and then push the head the rest of the way onto the
studs.
I never thought of it before, but having the PR already in the PR
tube helps block the entry of errant nuts.
Jim
-
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Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 23:51:28 -0600
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] FI Fuel Line Routing Queries ('73)
Message-Id: <199903190550.XAA180474@mail1.doit.wisc.edu>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
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On 18 Mar 99, at 23:15, Stan Schaefer wrote:
>The filter is mounted(supposed to be, anyway) in
> a bracket that sits on top of the pump, the legs are held together with a
> cotter pin(anyone know of long enough replacements?).
The bracket was introduced with the 70 models, I have a few NOS
cotter pins, but I usually just wire the bracket with some steel
galvanized wire of which I have a convenient lifetime supply.
Oh yeah, the pump is
> mounted on two moulded rubber mounts with studs out both ends and is on
> the back side of that plate in the axle opening.
I have a few good (non VW) replacement rubber mounts, too.
Jim
-
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Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 23:51:29 -0600
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Sorry, but I just have to vent!
Message-Id: <199903190550.XAA179934@mail1.doit.wisc.edu>
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On 18 Mar 99,åöX , Phil Dillard wrote:
> I grabbed it, made the save,
> shoved it back in...and held it for the next 6 miles.
Nice catch!
> Now a simple question: How is the glass held in...by an adhesive? If so,
> does anyone have a favorite glue to recommend?
Good question. I don't really know, but a glass man once told me that
they were just held in by the grip of the metal channel. If this just
happened because the rubber had shrunk enough to loosen the grip,
then the same glass man told me that they had this rubber in strips
of many different widths.
Super glue might actually work well here, but I can easily imagine
myself making a complete mess of things in the attempt.
Jim
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Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 23:45:16 -0600
From: "Michael Geurink" <geurink_brasil@bigfoot.com>
To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
Subject: [T3] Front suspension
Message-ID: <010501be71cb$b48b9960$6813d9cd@geurink.netnitco.net>
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Will a 67 Type 3 front suspension bolt into my 71 square?
Does anyone else have the same problem I do? My up-travel-limit snubber on
the left side has rusted completely off. Why does that happen? There
didn't seem to be an inordinate amount of crud plastered in that area--not
any more than anywhere else, but nowhere else is there the same amount of
rust. This is almost like delamination of the grain of the metal. Maybe
there was something weird in the fabrication process?
Mike
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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 01:18:12 -0500
From: jadney@vwtype3.org
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] Interesting itS‡½ö ay web site item#79152697: WEBER VW TECH MANUAL SUPER TUNE-UP GUIDE
Message-Id: <199903190618.BAA16315@maria.yourwebhost.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I saw this item for sale at eBay, I fugured that some of our Webered friends might be interested.
Jim
Title of item: WEBER VW TECH MANUAL SUPER TUNE-UP GUIDE
Seller: ryanmathae@aol.com
Starts: 03/16/99 15:32:15 PST
Ends: 03/23/99 15:32:15 PST
Price: Starts at $18.95
To bid on the item, go to: http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=79152697
Item Description:
This is Bob Tomlinson's Original WEBER TECH MANUAL, Super Tune-Up Guide for VW and Porsche Engines. Book published by CB Performance Books. New, unopened in package. Winning bidder pays $3.50 shipping in the US.
Visit eBay, the world's largest Personal Trading Community at http://www.ebay.com
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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 00:19:01 -0600 (CST)
From: JT <johnc@geekopolis.com>
To: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
cc: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] T3 life in WI
Message-ID: <Pine.NEB.3.96.990319001801.4267F-100000@casiotone.radparker.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Jim:
How is T3 life out there in cheese land?
Any solid drivers around for sale that would be driveable back here to MN.
Keep your eyes open please.
Thanks
- JT
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 22:29:05 -0800
From: "Ginger D.&Peter P." <gingerd@teleport.com>
To: type3-list <type3@vwtype3.org>
Subject: [T3] Sold
Message-ID: <36F1EEB0.31F843D6@teleport.com>
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I got an email message yesterday that those 18 low milage and new
notches and squares have all been sold! I'm just hoping that the n/ŸåÜ (s) will bring one to a VW show so I can see for myself.
Peter Parker
'66 Square; Phillip
Portland, OR
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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 06:12:14 -0800
From: Allen Moore <concept@compassnet.com>
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Sold
Message-ID: <36F25B3E.AE536509@compassnet.com>
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Hmmm, at least we can hope that at least ONE of the new owners of
these cars ends up on the list here. :->! SO that we can get the
lowdown on just how good were these cars.
Did anyone from the list here actually SEE one of them?
Allen
70' Square
Ginger D.&Peter P. wrote:
>
> I got an email message yesterday that those 18 low milage and new
> notches and squares have all been sold! I'm just hoping that the new
> owner(s) will bring one to a VW show so I can see for myself.
>
> Peter Parker
> '66 Square; Phillip
> Portland, OR
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
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--------------------------------
End of type3-d Digest V99 Issue #149
************************************
.
> ** Original Subject: type3-d Digest V99 #149
> ** Original Sender: type3-d-request@vwtype3.org
> ** Original Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 07:19:07 -0500
> **---------
>
Lee
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