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You're talking about the front seal, right? The flywheel seal. Yes it's a pain, but no you don't have to splitIK* e. Probably the most difficult part of this job is removing and installing the flywheel, if you've never done this before. You need to bolt a bar to the flywheel to hold it steady, then use a large breaker bar and socket to remove the flywheel gland nut. Once the flywheel's off, gently pry the old seal out with a screwdriver. Tap the new seal in place with a rubber mallet flush with the case. Take the old seal, turn it around and place it on top of the new one... tap on the old seal with mallet to push the new seal in as far as it will go. Check behind your flywheel where it mates with the crankshaft... if you have an O-ring, replace it... if you have a paper or metal gasket between the flywheel and crankshaft replace it accordingly... don't switch a paper gasket where there was metal one or vice versa as it will adversely affect your crankshaft thrust clearance. Check the surface of your flywheel where it contacts the seal. If you see it's rough, you can work it smooth with 300 grit and progressively finer sandpaper finishing it off with 600 grit. <<<<<<<<<<<<<<< Nathan Jacobsen '62 NB '69 SB M/T ICQ #38633286 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > so how hard is it to replace the rear main seal in an engine. I have one > that leaks bad in this spot and I know it needs one. I heard you actually > have to partially split the case but I was wondering because I have a > good engine sitting in my garage with this problem. > > > >From Chris Swafford ------------------------------------------------------------------- List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org