Re: [T3] Engine Rebuilding.

[stans4@ix.netcom.com (Stan Schaefer)]

For a near-stock engine, the stock valves(VW OEM) are just fine.
Leave the race parts to the race guys.  Just make sure you get parts
from a reputable dealer, there's a whole lot of junk floating around
out there.

If you're going to use a counterweighted crank, go with the lightened
flywheel, it does make a difference.  Since you're adding weight to
the crank, taking weight off the flywheel makes sense to keep the
rotating mass close to what stock is.  I used a regular flywheel with
a counterweighted stock-sized crank for a few months, the difference
when I changed over was noticeable in the pickup and acceleration.
Make sure you get the whole works balanced, though.

The case depends on what shape your old one is in.  If it needs
machine work(and most old ones do), it'll probably cost you half of
what a new case will with no guarantee that you'll get any sort of
life out of it.  Read Berg's technical articles about that.  I saved
my pennies up and got a new case when I built my engine.  The old one
was on 4th oversize mains, the studs had pulled and the cam bore was
out of line with the main bore.  Well paÀÑàƒto scrap it.

The full flow IS a tight fit, the only other alternative I've heard
about that's at all a reasonable substitute is one I heard about when
I was out in Northern CA.  There is/was an outfit up in Sonoma, Power
Engineering, that had a different way of installing a full flow, they
used a stock, unplugged pump and milled a pocket in the upper left of
the engine for an aluminum block.  It had two L-shaped passages with
the appropriate fittings threaded in and intersected the upper oil
gallery to the cooler.  O-rings on each end and a bolt in the middle
completed the package.  Was THE setup for the sand-rail set around
there, I think they quoted $200-300 for the machine work and supplied
fittings.  Would eliminate a lot of problems with fitting the crossbar
anyway.  I didn't have it done, my engine was together by the time I
heard about it.  It took me about a week of evenings of filing and
sawing on both the crossbar and fittings before I had it properly
clearanced.  Lots of blisters.  You've only got to do it once, though.

Make sure you've got all the parts for your cooling system, flaps,
crank, spring, thermostat, etc.  Now's the time to get that stuff in
there while you're torn down, if some helpful PO removed it all.  You
might also get your engine tin straightened, cleaned and painted,
epoxy powder-coated if you've got a facility around.


On Tue, 6 Jul 1999 21:11:01 -0700, you wrote:

>Fellas,
>
>Just to double check, especially since you, collectively, seem to have a bit
>more experience rebuilding engines than I, on a stock rebuild I should
>include:
>
>New heads
>CW 69mm
>(I'll have to pass on a case--too expensive, or should I really spend the
>extra $350-450?)
>
>Things I'm not too sure about:
>Valves.  I heard of people going to such an extreme of using titanium
>valves.  What materials should I look for, or look out for?
>
>Full Flow.  Berg? Another way?  Ideas and hints?  Everyone says it is a
>tight fit, but I haven't heard of a good solution, aside from Jim's grinding
>of the crose“ýÃ
>Lightened Fly Wheel.  With a CW 69, this might be helpful.  Any drawbacks?
>
>Any other good mods?  Anything that will allow keeping the stock FI and
>increase longevity, please metion it.  I appreciate all your help.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Steve
>
>
>
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