Re: [T3] 311 117 151 A (oil cooler question)

["John R. Jetty" <jjetty@pahrump.com>]

>Hi Volks-
>
>I am trying to fix an oil cooler leak and have a few questions. I went to
>the FLAPS and got oil cooler seals (part number 311 117 151 A). After doing
>the engine-in-car tin removal and taking off the oil cooler, I am now kinda
>stumped.
>
>First of all, the existing seals are much flatter and thinner than the new
>ones I picked up. I realize this could be from the natural compression of
>having been squished between the oil cooler and the engine casing, but I
>just wanted confirm if it's normal for the new ones to be about 2X the
>thickness (height) of old ones and like 1/3 thinner in diameter.  No sense
>replacing the seals if they're the wrong ones!
>
>Secondly, the existing seals were not visibly torn or damaged. Because the
>bottom half of the oil cooler is oily and dirty (I assume from dirt being
>blown by and sticking to oily surfaces) I am now wondering if perhaps it's
>not the seals but the cooler itself that has a leak (!?). Does anyone know
>how to tell if it's your oil cooler leaking and not the seals? Or is the
>oil cooler being all oily and dirty enough reason to assume it is the
>culprit?  Oil was slowly leaking out near the centermost 10mm nut (one of 3
>holding down the cooler) so I assumed it was the seals. Does a slow leak
>(as opposed to a gush) also lead to a Bad Oil Cooler diagnosis?
>
>TIA for any advise.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Dave Y.
>
>PS. This is my first time doing my own oil cooler work (after 30 years of
>ownership) so it's kindof exciting actually doing it after reading Muir for
>years and hearing it was so easy. Hopefully, I didn't get in over my
>head..... :)
>


I would try filling your cooler with gas..  ( as long as the car can be down
for a couple of days to allow the cooler to dry out. Not only then will you
be able to clean the cooler but also see if it leaks.

Take a funnel and fill one of the holes till gas comes out the other side.

Worth a try
James

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