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Re: [T3] (G) Light


Well I am into the wiring part now. I took the wiring harnest out of my
71 and put all of the necessary parts on a 3X4 ft pallette. with
Generator on a 1/2" piece of steel with a 1/2Hp 110V motor. (Belt Drive)
and a voltage regulator, Wire stuff and fuse panel. So i can Not only
have 12V charging stuff and not can I not only use big C.b. 12V Leniers
here i can also charge batteries! and it works. Im gonna get some film if
I have time after my bath today and get some pictures going on. Man this
has been a big job!.

>From Chris Swafford:www.geocities.com/motorcity/garage/4265/
537Buckeye 36LSB  S.W. Corner of Cinti,Oh In the Hills
71'Beautiful Crashed stock Squareback half in primer. Anyone need parts?
73'Squareback (More than solid)Rear end hell! Any Suggestions?
68'Bug w/swingaxle (I hate thoes)Oh well!

On Sun, 18 Oct 1998 22:21:46 -0600 "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
writes:
>On 17 Oct 98, at 21:06, swaffordvw@juno.com wrote:
>
>> Well im not sure what a voltage meter will tell me with a bad 
>voltage
>> regulator. But when i started it up the other day
>> Before start 11.79V
>> While Idling 11.85to 11.90V
>> At 2000Rpm+ 11.9-12V
>
>This tells loads.  Specifically that the generator is doing 
>absolutely nothing.  So you have either a bad generator or a 
>broken/disconnected wire.
>
>First check the generator:
>
>[All the markings are stamped into the generator body.]
>
>1) With the engine off, disconnect the DF wire from the generator; 
>loop that free wire away from harm so it cannot short to anything.
>
>2) Connect the voltmeter from ground to the D+ terminal on the 
>generator.
>
>3) Start the engine.  The voltmeter should read something small.
>
>4) With a piece of wire or any piece of metal, short the generator DF 
>terminal to ground while watching the voltmeter.  The voltage should 
>go up.  If you rev the engine briefly while shorting the DF terminal 
>you should see the voltage go up to 14V or more.  If it does not do 
>this, there is a problem with the generator itself.
>
>5) If there is a problem with the generator itself, the first place 
>to look is at the brushes.  There are 2, and one is visible from 
>above, the other can be felt below.  If either is worn short enough 
>that it no longer sticks above the rectangular sleeve that guides it, 
>then it is worn out and can no longer reach the commutator.  You can 
>usually make worn out brushes work briefly as a test by pushing them 
>both down into the generator with your fingers while doing this test.
>
>6A) If you are careful you can replace brushes with the generator in 
>the car.  Using two screwdrivers, one to remove the screw that 
>secures the brush pigtail and one as a lever to support the bracket 
>that the screw goes into so it does not bend, remove and don't drop 
>the screw, pull the spring aside and pull the brush out.  Drop the 
>new brush in and connect it.  The screw should be pretty tight, and 
>the pigtail must be routed so it doesnt short out against anything.
>
>The second brush can be done the same way by removing all the wires 
>from he generator, loosening the strap, and rotating the generator 
>body in its cradle until the lower brush is acccessible.
>
>6B) If the problem is in the generator, but the brushes are fine, 
>then the chances are that you will need to take it to someone more 
>knowledgable to get it fixed.  Of course I can do it, but there is 
>bound to be someone close to you.  Or you can just exchange it for a 
>BOSCH rebuilt.
>
>7) When you are finished, rotate the generator back and reconnect the 
>leads.  The generator MUST be rotated so that the DOT on the strap is 
>aligned with the DASH on the generator body.  This aligns the cooling 
>hole on the underside so the generator gets adequate cooling.
>
>Let us know what you find.
>
>Jim
>-
>*******************************
>Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
>Madison, Wisconsin, USA
>*******************************
>
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