[T3] water problems

[oofacts@earthlink.net]

Keith Park's procedure for water problems is the most thorough one there
is. I highly recommend it to anyone concerned about water (therefore
rust) and having problems with leaks. 

As for what I've learned from the master: RTV, BABY!
If you cant afford the window seals, RTV a bead around the edges of
them. 
Door seals that dont seal: Run good bead of RTV along the seal, let it
set up, and slam the door and keep it shut at least 8 hours, preferably
24 (total curing time) . It aint purty but it'll contour to the door and
seal it good. Just let it set up enough so it doesnt glue your door
shut.  
Fender wells should be scraped of all rust - cut that crap out - and
welded with patches. Or blow oil into it like Keith says. Scrape off
that cruddy undercoating and as much rust as you can get off and go to
with the oil or at least duro extend or coroless and use roofing tar,
not undercoating. 
UNDERCOATING IS CRAP. Remove it. Scape it off, brush it off, do
whatever, but then protect it immediately again. 
Under the dash, take out the fresh air fan and look up and see the
light, then block it out with RTV. (except where the fresh air is
supposed to come in, of course). There should be a seal on the blower
box. If it isn't any good, make one with (you guessed it:RTV) While the
box is down, scoop out all the crap inside it. 

Still leaking? Look inside the hood all the way at the back. My car had
a rust hole in the firewall and in the intake plenum. The firewall is
clear enough toi see, but the intake plenum is confusing to describe -
bst off to look down into the dash grill and see if it looks like a
worthy piece of steel or a rotten crevace down there. (Mine still looks
like a crevace because it was improperly repaired - so what do I do?
RTV!! From the inside under the dash! ) 

This is just a rudimentary start. Keith's notes on this are invaluable.
The man knows rust. 

-Mike
72 Sqbk, oily and ready for winter.
Brooklyn

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