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Chad, > How similar are the pop out window seals...the ones attached to the window > between a notch and a fastback? As a GUESS I think the rubber seals are the same cross section, but different lengths. A squareback seal could probably be trimmed to make a seal for a notch or square. > Another question....is it easy to re-build a master cylinder? Single or > dual easier? Both are easy once you know what you're doing and have the right tools. The main thing you need is a brake cylinder hone and some experience. The main thing you need to know, is that brake rubber parts are sensitive to attack by ANY KIND OF PETROLEUM PRODUCT, so never use any petroleum oil or grease on brake parts. Honing takes some skill, so it might be worthwhile to get a junk part of any kind from the salvage yard to practice with. > I'm getting a set of front disk set-ups as a temporary fix, until i can > get a set of brake cylinders(anyone out there have any for front right > 65 notch?). Is it a straight foreward swap? I want to rebuild the master > cylinder, and replace the hoses...what else should I check? Check the long line from front to rear where it passes by the accel pedal. It it is badly rusted, this is a good time to replace it. This is a nasty job any time, but particularly so if you have just gone through everything else and think your system is in good shape only to find that you now have a leak underfoot. > What special tools will I need? Brake cylinder hone that will go down to the suze of your MC. A good 7mm box wrench for the brake bleed valves. > -brake bleeder Just a piece of clear plastic hose from the hardware store. > -what is that tool called.....that looks like a two pronged fork to get > it off....(pardon my technical jargon) I think you're thinking of a "pickle fork" which is used on some cars (not VWs) to remove ball joints and tie rod ends. Nothing to do with brakes. > -is there a special wrench called a spanner or something for the hoses? I call these "line wrenches." They are VERY useful. They look like a 6 or 12 point (I recommend the 6 point) box end wrench that has a section of the box cut away so you can slip them over the hose/line and then slide the wrench over the hex. They are better than an open end wrench because they exert torque on 4 or 5 points rather than just 2, so they will often open a rusty joint where an open end will just ruin the fitting. > what else?? > new pads, brake fluid....what should I check on the rotors to make sure they > are ok? If you are going to all this trouble to get things into shape, I STRONGLY recommend that you use Silicone Brake Fluid. I have attached my Silicone Brake Fluid faq to this message FYI. I post this about once a year anyway, so it is probably time. Jim - ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA *******************************