RE: RE: [T3] Gland Nuts

[James MacNaughton <JMac@uglyduckling.com>]

Okay, let me explain the entire process (my Exchange keeps blowing up, and I
keep loosing the message).

Looking down on the distributor, the FI triggers are at 2 o'clock-ish, the
condenser is supposed to be around 4 and the leads coming out of the
distributor are at 5.  If I put in the 'right' condenser, it would hit the
accelerator return spring mount, and get stuck at around 22ź BTDC.  With the
FI triggers, it'd get stuck at around 7 1/2 ź, but I've bent the spring
mount slightly, to allow for proper timing.

The way mine is set up, is that the condenser is screwed to the distributor
body at like 10 o'clock, and has a long lead going into the dist. around the
body of it, and one going to the coil.

Again, I had this problem with a Beetle, but it was a little easier to work
around in there.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	mfuhriman@fugro.com [SMTP:mfuhriman@fugro.com]
> Sent:	Thursday, December 17, 1998 2:40 PM
> To:	JMac@uglyduckling.com
> Subject:	RE:  RE: [T3] Gland Nuts 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I guess now you've got me.. I have never had any trouble with the   
> points/condensers that I get from my local VW parts place.  Genuine Bosch
> 
> parts, right?  ..But I am running an all-mechanical advance "009"   
> distributor right now because that was all I could find right away when   
> my "correct" mech/vacuum advance dist. went ka-put.  From my local store,
> 
> I get a points/condenser assembly that fits the 009 dist. perfectly.   
>   Sorry, I don't have part numbers handy.  But I guess it's possible that
> 
> this assembly may not fit your dist. just right, especially if you have   
> the correct dist.
> 
> In any event, you should still be able to solder on the correct wire   
> length if you need a longer lead in there.  Try it!
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: JMac [SMTP:JMac@uglyduckling.com]
> Sent: Thursday, December 17, 1998 11:52 AM
> To: "'mfuhriman@fugro.com'" <mfuhriman@fugro.com>
> Subject:  RE: [T3] Gland Nuts
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, that lead is fine, it's the lead that runs from the condenser to   
> the
> points, through the hole in the side of the distributor.  If I install   
> the
> condenser that is given to me by the FLAPS, it won't allow the   
> distributor
> to be timed correctly, it is in the way of the return spring mount.
> 
> Do I have the wrong distributor, or condenser?
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: mfuhriman@fugro.com [SMTP:mfuhriman@fugro.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, December 17, 1998 11:25 AM
> > To: type3@vwtype3.org
> > Subject: RE: [T3] Gland Nuts
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >I'm having difficulty getting the correct condenser for my car; have
> > >you all experienced the same thing?  Either the electric lead is too   
>     
> 
> > short,
> > >and the mounting bracket is the correct one, or the lead is plenty   
> long
> > >enough, and the bracket is wrong.
> >
> > So you have a later car with the coil way over on the left side?  You   
>     
> 
> > just need to make a longer lead by splicing the lead from the condenser
> 
>     
> 
> > to another lead that is connected to the coil.  You can properly splice
> 
>     
> 
> > the wires either by soldering and wrapping the joint with shrink tubing
> 
>     
> 
> > or by crimping on a solderless connector.
> >  -Mark  '70 Fastback
> >  Houston, TX (Getting the car ready for my move to Oakland, CA)
> >
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