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On Wed, 22 Oct 1997, Andrew Paroczy wrote: > stop wasting time and just drop in a new 009 dizzy!!!(your 12 v primary > circuit wire to the points could be crook!!! Maybe a internally damaged > green wire is present!!!!) > Carlson Bryan J wrote: > > > I have a newly rebuilt engine that I have not heard run yet, and I > > have > > traced the problem to the electrics. First, a little about my car: > > 73 Square, formerly FI, now with a single carb (not my doing), and a > > fresh > > stock rebuild (new piston and cylinders, mains and cam bearings, > > rebuilt > > heads, cam and followers...the usual stuff). When the thing was all > > apart, I rebuilt the distributor with new rotor, condensor, and > > points. > > Upon cranking the engine in the car, the output from the coil wire to > > the > > distributor was very weak (the white spark it was producing would only > > > > jump a 1/2 to 1 mm gap). I fussed around with it for a while with a > > testing light, and found current in all the proper places, and > > determined > > that I needed a new coil. No problem, new coil in place, but I got > > the > > same result at the coil wire. Using an ohmmeter, tested the new > > condensor, and found a less than infinite resistance reading, so I > > swapped > > in my old condensor, and found that the spark from the coil improved > > to a > > 1 1/2 to 2 mm gap whiteish/yellowish spark, but that was still not > > enough > > to produce a spark at the plug. During this little experiment, I was > > using a fresh battery (from my truck) connected inline with jumper > > cables > > to another fresh battery in a running car, so I don't think that > > having a > > weak power source in the culprit. I also swapped out the coil wire > > from > > my truck to see if the wire from the coil to the distributor (new) was > > > > bad. Same result. > > So, there's my scenario. A couple questions: what had to be changed > > out > > during the FI/carb swap? Am I using the proper coil and distributor > > and > > distributor components? This is driving me nuts, as I only have a few > > > > hours a week to fiddle around with my baby, and I also feel that I am > > ruining my starter cranking it on a new engine all the time. Any help > > > > will be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Bryan > Type 3 Group, I have had some time today to look at my car. Using a voltmeter, the voltage from the primary wire to the coil is 12v, the voltage from the distributor back to the coil is 11v, and the voltage from the coil wire to the center of the dist cap is 11v. These measurements were all taken by turning the engine over by hand. Curiously, my tester light lit upon touching the + lead of the coil and the - lead of the coil, but not when touching the coil wire to the dist, either when detached fron the cap or when attached and touched to the inside center of the cap. Gave a voltage reading, though. Another curiosity: The wire from the dist to the coil (connected to term 1) would only light the tester light when the points were open. I know that this is not entirely clear, but I'll leave it at that. I hope to get some time tomorrow to fiddle around, so give me some suggestions. Your previous suggestions have helped, although the spring on the points was not grounding to the side of the dist and all of my battery connections and ground straps are in good shape. Thanks in advance, Bryan