Re[2]: '71 Squareback front end -- lock plate fix

[Toby Erkson <Toby_Erkson@ccm2.hf.intel.com>]

What a previous mechanic did for my lock plate problem is drill a small 
hole in the heat of both bolts and thread a loop of iron core wire thru 
them, then tightened the wire.

Drill the hole thru the bolt head on the side where you'd put a wrench; the 
hole will run perpendicular to the shank.  See below:                    
             _____________          
            |  |       |  |  
            |  |   O   |  |  <--location to drill hole 
            |__|_______|__|     in both bolt heads 
                |     |         (drill all the way thru) 
                |     |      
                |___ _|      
                |__ __|      
                |_ ___|      
                |_____|      
                             
The wire will look like a loop, as though you made a real small necklace with 
two bolts hanging from it.  Twist the wire together like a twist-tie (like how 
you would tie up a garbage sack) and make sure it's pretty snug!  This has 
lasted me for *years* and is much more durable than the lock plate in my 
opinion.

     Toby Erkson
     air_cooled_nut@pobox.com
     '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L
     '75 Porsche 914 stock 1.8L for sale


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: '71 Squareback front end
Author:  type-3-errors@umich.edu at SMTPGATE
Date:    3/11/97 12:42 AM

...
#1 item is the (front)upper torsion(stabilizer) bar.  My '71 did that
very thing when I first got it, don't think anyone had ever tightened
it up.  There's a clamp screw with a lock nut on the passenger side
upper arm with a bolt on the axis of the arm.  Loosen the lock nut
on the clamp screw, then loosen the clamp screw.  Tighten the bolt
up, I'll bet you find you have quite a few rotations before it stops.
 There's supposed to be a lock plate under that bolt, but every Type
III I've seen has had the locking tabs broken off.  The Bentley book
has the procedure you're supposed to follow for tightening with proper
torque values.  Tighten the clamp screw up and the lock nut and you're
done.  There's a setscrew at the opposite end of the bar on the driver's
side, it's got a conical point which is supposed to keep the bar from
moving axially(hah).  The end of the bar should be about flush with
the surface of the upper right arm(if you can see it under the grease
...