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I have had my tow bar for about ten years. It has made numerous trips towing VW type 3s, including about a dozen trips from San Francisco to Los Angeles (400 miles). It is absolutely trust worthy. I will make one for you for $125.00 plus shipping, or you can do this: You need: 4 each 9" x 3" x 3/8" steel plates 2 each 5/8" x 5" hardened bolts 4 each nuts for 5/8" bolts 2 each starter side VW engine mount bolts 4 each nuts for engine mount bolts 2 each 1/2" black pipe, 3 1/8" long 2 each 3/4" black pipe, 3 1/8" long 1 each universal tow bar A universal tow bar can be purchased from many places, but you see them often in Hot VW shown as a tow bar for a super beetle. The bar consists of the hitch mechanism, probably for a 1 3/4" ball, and its pipe attachments, ending in two flat steel appendages with a hole in it for a clevis pin. The rest of the tow bar is a flat plate about 32" long, with attachments welded to it to match the appendages on the hitch side, again, with holes for a clevis pin. (Occasionally, the plate is not flat, which will screw the following instructions up.) The pins come as part of the tow bar package. On the flat plate which comes with the tow bar package, measure 3/4' inboard from each of the clevis pin mounts, centered on the plate, and drill a 5/8" hole. Cut off the excess steel outboard of the clevis pin mounts. For each of the four 3/8" steel plates, on one end drill a 5/8" hole, centered 1 1/2" from the end. In other end, drill a 25/64" hole, centered 1 1/2 inches from the end. This is important. Cut the black pipe with a hack saw, not a pipe cutting tool. The pipe must be no shorter than 3 1/8", and the ends must be flat and square. You will be slipping the larger pipe over the smaller, so the lengths must be the same. Do not use threaded pipe. Assemble two "U" shaped pieces by putting the 5/8" bolt through one of the 9" plates. Then put a 1/2" pipe over the bolt, and put a 3/4" pipe over that. The two pieces of pipe act as a spacer. Now put another 9" plate on the assembly, and put this whole thing through one of the 5/8" holes in the tow bar plate. Put your assembly on from the back of the plate, so that the attachment points face away from the "U" assembly. Put on one nut to hold things in place. Put a motor mount bolt through the smaller holes in the two 9" plates, to keep everything aligned. Now get your breaker bar and a 6 foot pipe, and tighten the nut on the 5/8" bolt - really tight. If you bought hardened bolts and nuts, you will not strip them. Put on a second 5/8" nut, and tighten it to lock everything in place. When both sides are done, remove the motor mount bolts. Lay the assembly you just made under your car, open ends up. They will slide over the front member (after knocking mud and tar out of the way). Hold it in place while sliding a motor mount bolt through the top holes. Install these bolts from the rear. Double nut them in place so they do not come loose. Attach the hitch piece, and some safety chain, and you are ready. This bar will be short. No tight turns! Do not back up! Be careful going from flat to uphill, like at a steep driveway entrance. If the receiver on your car will take one, you can use a receiver extender to give you more room between the tow vehicle, and the car being towed. If your tow vehicle is very tall at the hitch, you will have problems. I have always used the tow bar just as I made it, and exercising care, have had no problems. I will answer questions. Tim Dapper tdapper@value.net