Re: Body work Qs

[stans4@ix.netcom.com (Stan Schaefer)]

There is no substitute for preparation when painting.  Your number 1
is OK but I'd use a sander, not a wire brush, you'd get some really
deep scratches with the wire brush.  That's if you don't have access
to pneumatic tools or a compressor, might be worthwhile renting if you
have the area to work in.  A DA(dual-action) sander can really speed
things up.  It can really bugger up a paint job, too, if you aren't
careful..Depends on how fast you can learn to use one.  For small
spots, I really prefer hand work with a sanding block, to heavy power
tools.  It also depends how heavy the rust is.  If it's too deep,
you're going to end up getting some metal welded back on somehow.  If
you have rust in back of filler, you'll eventually have a hole there,
Bondo absorbs moisture.  Ding dents back out, you really shouldn't
have more than just a very thin layer of filler anywhere.

Check with a body shop supply place on their recommendations for rust
neutralizer, there are some good products out there that you don't see
in the hardware section of Wal-Mart.  Since you will be presumably
using auto finsihing products after you apply the rust stop, you are
going to have to use a product compatible with the paint you are going
to apply.  The body shop supply store will have some recommendations.
Be prepared for sticker shock, a quart of the Sherwin-Williams primer
I use cost just about $20.  I figure that it makes up into about a
gallon of ready to spray solution, more than enough for most of the
car.  The paint is about $120/gallon, fancy two-part epoxy or
urethanes go for even more.  With the stuff costing that much, doing
just a quick, half-hearted job is a waste of money.  Take some time,
go down to your local library and get some books on body work and
painting, you'll do a much better job.  If you can't or don't want to
take the time to learn the skills, find a good body shop and let them
take over, you'll be much happier with the results.  My opinions, hope
this helps.

On Fri, 25 Jul 1997 14:51:51 -0700, you wrote:

>Hi Folks-
>
>Well, I can't put it off any longer.  My 68 Sqbk has been gathering rust in
>many (small) spots and the cheap paint job I had done 6 years ago looks
>like the $800 it cost. (glad I took the picture that is on Greg's scrapbook
>page right after the paint job ;)  There are a few dings here and there
>that I don't fel like messing with as a rookie, and painting it myself is
>out of the question, so basically, I want to do the rust removal/spot
>primering myself and then take the car to someone for the paint/bodywork.
>
>My questions are about the general procedure for removing rust in spots and
>primering. 
>For example... I've got rust on the roof in spots where the roof rack used
>to attach and
>in strips where the lateral rack slats used to be.  The holes were filled
>and rust supposedly
> removed when I had the car painted last, but obviously that didn't do the
>trick.
>
>Here's what I'm thinking I need to do... please add wisdom/product info
>wherever possible! :)
>
>1.  Buff off all the rust/paint down to the metal in and around all spots
>where there is rust.
>I am assuming it is ok to use a drill w/ one of those wire brush
>attachments for this. (?)
>2.  Apply some kinda rust-killer/suppressor stuff and let sit... (see, i
>don't know squat... help! :)
>3.  Mask section and apply a few coats of primer.
>4. Let dry and pray.
>
>Also, I have rust spots (minor) in the gutters and along the side of the
>car under where the big chrome moulding
>attach points are.  Would I use the same procedure for all affected areas?
>
>Thanks to any who can shed light....
>
>David Y.
>
>