[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]
Text item: Text1
I'm a cut above the average snap shot so here's some more tips...
1. If you don't have reflectors the next best thing is a cloudy day! Yep, even
when taking portraits of people, a cloudy day is best as it gives nice, even
lighting -- no harsh shadows and bright/dark contrast problems.
2. Use print film (this is what every one uses anyway, right?) as it has the
most latitude i.e. it's more forgiving. Slide film does have better color
qualities that make images much more 'real' but it's not as forgiving. For
those who know a little about photography, print film can be pushed +/- 3to5
stops while slide is about +/- 1-3 stops (going on memory here).
3. Actually, do overexpose your film...but just a little differently. For the
vast majority of pictures I take I use Fuji 400 print film (brand name is Fuji,
film speed is 400) but I set my *manual* 35mm camera film speed selector to 200.
What this will do is tell the camera, "Hey, you have 200 speed loaded so you
need to give the film a little more light than a faster (>200) film." (Well,
your camera may not talk to itself, but mine does :) Now, take pictures as you
normally would, but for the best, evenest results make sure that you use the
whole roll at the selected film speed, that is, don't change the film speed
selector around while still using the same roll of film (unless you know what
yer doing in which case you already know what to do and can just delete this
message). Remember, since print film is more forgiving, and since the entire
roll of film will be developed as 400, this little overexposing will help bring
in color and shadow detail. Just a note: Fuji 400 (super G or super HG or
something like that) is a 400 speed film but its grain is 200. This gives the
photographer more light to work with AND enlarging flexibility without the curse
of too much grain.
4. Traditionally, if your images are going to be primarily warm colors (oranges,
yellows and reds) then use Kodak film. For cooler colors (blues, greens and
most photography taken in the western Oregon and Washington areas :) use Fuji.
Personally, I think Fuji kicks butt over Kodak. The slower the film speed the
truer the colors will be, so you could pull out your Kodak 64 film and take a
big, beautiful snap of your Blue T3 and it will look great. Just make sure you
have a tripod and/or lots of light!
5. Uhm, you realize that the best pictures are going to come from a 35mm or
larger camera, right? Those point-n-shoots are nice on vacation where weight is
a factor but absolutely SUCK for quality images (like for use on a magazine
cover). Make sure the camera has manual operation or modes as well so you can
make your own tweaks, such as the film speed alteration as mentioned in #4.
6. Avoid wide angle lenses unless the shot really demands it or for 'artistic'
reasons (and, by the way, *beginners* shouldn't try for 'artistic'). Using a
large aperture (smaller number on the aperture ring -- photography, it's all
backwards!) will *decrease* what's in focus. This is good as only the subject
will be in focus and every thing in front and behind the subject will be out of
focus -- this forces the eye to view only the subject and not become distracted
by the background. A telephoto lens is great as they generally require larger
apertures and do a better job at blurring the background.
7. Try to avoid using props as most are just trendy and can seriously limit/date
the image (again, unless it's really what's needed or it's artistic). Remember
the word KISS -- Keep It Simple, Stupid! The planet Earth has many natural and
man-made backgrounds, use 'em. Naturally with the *hot rod* scene a babe posing
with the vehicle is considered okay by most (not all, but most). If ya gotta
put your SO (significant other) in it be honest and don't dress them in a
bathing suit if they really aren't model material. Having people pose is a
little harder than it looks as you are trying to put a three dimensional image
onto a two dimensional space and things become distorted. Some general tips
here: Have the person face 90 degrees from the camera and have them twist from
the torso to face the camera, turning the head if needed (this makes a person
look thinner). Generally, don't have the model face *directly* into the lens,
have a little of the side of their face exposed (makes the face more flattering
and adds depth). Have the model's eyes look directly *into* the lens. To keep
from having the double/triple chin look make sure they push their chin out a
little -- notice how when some people smile they pull in their chin? Not
flattering! Go easy on the makeup, especially the cheeks. Have makeup applied
in a very well lit area (less is used that way). And remember, the CAR is your
main model, everything else is just props!
8. Take pictures with your camera at the same level of the car, uhmmm, so your
lens is about the same height as the top of the front fender or within the same
height as the side window. 3/4 shots look better than straight on (3/4 example:
picture contains the front, hood, and side of car). For a more aggressive look
or one that gives a 'larger then life' view get on the ground and take the
picture looking up to the car.
9. Bracket the shots if you've got plenty of film otherwise bracket shots you're
not sure about. Bracketing is taking the picture underexposed 1 stop, at
exposure, and overexposed 1 stop (you can even go further with -2, -1, 0 +1, +2
exposures). This can sometimes help in difficult lighting situations.
10. A fantastic picture is worthless if printing is poor! I don't like
developing and printing my own [color] film so I do use the 1-hour jobbies.
However, I make sure they use Konica paper for my Fuji film. Kodak users should
probably use Kodak paper (duh). Ask. If they won't use a specific paper then
look for another place if you can. What most developing places do is find the
images on the negatives that are human and expose for the flesh tones then
process the entire roll on those exposures. This is why when you take negatives
back to get certain frames reprinted they look different than the originals.
But, if you're looking to get good pictures of your ride without the price of a
professional at least use the services that a professional uses. Ask them who
does their film processing/printing. Many do send their film out as they just
take the pictures.
11. Look in magazines for ideas and angles. My favorite is European Car.
12. Take a lot of pictures, critique them critically, and out of two rolls of
24 exposure film you should get a nice handful of great shots suitable for
wallet-sizes for your friends and family as well as a couple for framed
enlargements to put above the fireplace or on the ceiling above your bed ;)
Toby Erkson, air_cooled_nut@pobox.com
'72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L
'75 Porsche 914 1.8L, ORPCA member
Portland, Oregon, http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/8501/
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Tips for taking good resto pics.
Author: type-3-errors@umich.edu at SMTPGATE_MIME
Date: 12/30/97 6:45 PM
Here is some helpful information that may be of service to anyone planning
to take pictures of their T3s (Now, who would want to do such a sill thing?)
...
>Well I have made a living for too many years taking pictures so this is
>one thing I know a little about. It looks like Stephen took the picture
>using fill-flash. Traditional, i.e. Kodak, thinking was always that you
>had the sun behind you when shooting. This is an okay point to start at
>but I have found that the secret to getting a good shot is to try and
>take the picture in your mind before you pick up the camera.
...YES!...
>Look at your subject see where the shadows are falling. Film cannot
>record an image as we see it in our brain. Shadows are inevitably much
>darker than we perceive them. If you try and expose to have shadow detail
>record then you tend to over-expose (make too bright) the other areas of
>the image...(more good stuff)...