Re: !!HELP!! Bad Valve(s)? About them valves...

[Toby Erkson <Toby_Erkson@ccm2.hf.intel.com>]

Just to make sure...  Your valve is neither burnt or stuck.  A burnt valve 
would give you symptoms of a power loss (i.e. you would be running on only 
three cylinders -- been there & did it :( )  Also, a burnt valve would not 
affect your valve gapping.  A stuck valve, however, would definitely affect 
your valve gapping!!!  A stuck valve would either destroy the cylinder when 
the piston and valve collided or, again, you would have a power loss due to 
only three cylinders properly working (again, a stuck valve would cause 
more damage like broken push rod, broken rocker arm, etc.)  I had the same 
problem once, a long time ago, and the mechanic said it wasn't uncommon.  
Unfortunately I can't remember *exactly* how it was fixed but I believe a 
new adjusting screw was installed.  This is something you can easily do 
yourself -- remove the retaining nut, unscrew the old adjusting screw and 
screw in the new one, add nut (shaken, not stirred) and adjust.  Done!

Both my Muir books, one very old and the other new, show the rotor at the 
4:00 position with the metal nib at the end of the rotor pointing at the 
*notch in the distributor*.  Use this notch since this is where #1 fires.  
If anyone has a distributor and the notch is anywhere else, even at the 
8:32 position, it doesn't matter, the notch shows where the #1 cylinder 
fires.  Adjust you reading angle from there ;)  As for the actual valve 
adjustment procedure I have always followed Muir's instructions (for 11 
years) and have never had a problem.

     Toby Erkson
     air_cooled_nut@pobox.com
     modified '72 VW Squareback 2.0L
     stock '75 Porsche 914 1.8L

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: !!HELP!! Bad Valve(s)?
Author:  type-3-errors@umich.edu at SMTPGATE
Date:    12/29/96 6:49 PM

...
The #2 intake valve was tight...so tight, that when I removed the
adjusting bolt, I *still* couldn't get an .006 blade in there. Stuck
valve? Burnt valve? The exhaust valve was adjustable, but I needed to
go the end of the bolt. Not much room left for adjustment. The #1
valves still have some length in the bold, but not as much shown in
the Muir illustration...Please diagnose! The car is a '63 1500S, although
that shouldn't make a big difference, right?
...