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Answers to Jim's comments/questions: >If there was a foreign object in there you would see dents in the head, too. >Are there dents there? There are sharp dents , only a couple but I would assume that it was probably caused by pieces of rings that are missing. >Was the hole in the piston melted (rounded edges) or broken (sharp edges?) The entrance hole looks mixed between sharp and a little melted, maybe sharp came first then flaming melted and rounded some edges. >Is the broken area also down the side of the piston and into the ring area? After the hole, all near ring area looks like it melted or evaporated, kind of like ice or when termites eat wood, on that side, no ring parts are visible like they disapeared and ring groves have completely disapeared like they melted and and evaporated. No ring are prestent in the vicinity. The damage does not extend to the bottom of the oil ring area but the skirts did crack right off to very clean breaks with no small parts falling into the case , the bottom half of the piston has no scratch marks so I can assume hard material did not get to my oil. My oil filter and magnets picked nothing up . > I hear that knock will break rings, but I don't know why. It is probably due to the hammering action. I have seen pistons and cylinders from different brand cars that experienced heavy knocking, always have alot of little hit marks all over the combustion chamber surfaces, like some little gremlin was banging away with a little hammer. High speed with ridges on the cylinder can break rings too but my cylinders have virtually no worn into ridges. >You will probably need to open up the whole engine anyway to clean out any >piston debris that ended up in the sump. it's also a good idea to inspect the >pump and clean out the oil passages because some of the smaller alum particles >can get past the filter screen. Like I said I saw no scratches below the bottom half of the piston so I assume that nothing fell into the case, only one large piece from the piston skirt was found in there and is all accounted for, nothing tiney missing. Yes I am in denial. >KS (along with Mahle) was one of the OEM suppliers of pistons and cylinders for >our cars. The quality was certainly good then; I don't know if it still is, but >this sounds like a good price. The piston really looks clean and pretty, pistons seem to fit tighter into their cylinders than the Mahle, I do not know if that makes a difference. The piston pins are individually sealed wrapped and the cylinders are very very clean. I had to scrub down the Mahle cylinders for hours to remove the diatom cutting crystals and ended up with two Barbie doll handful of these, these could be felt out of the box with it's oil, that was a couple of years ago. These cylinders and pistons have no cosmoline. Rubbing hand in cylinder came up with no metal or crystal particles. The only problem I had with the KS kit is that the pushrod tubes that were included were bent, probably caused by packaging mishandling . >> when replacing heads, one is still the >> the infamous MOFOCO head with big valves and the other is >> the Mexican VW dealership head with valves so small they look >> like they came from a lawn mower. >This might have been part of your problem. One side , the good side big valves thus more flow and power the other side with tiney tiney vales less power? I did not feel a big difference at all, after frankenstiening this I could still hit 90 mph. I now have 2 Brand new Mexican VW heads from The Bug Patch, these have the normal size stock valves that Germany used to put out, not lawmower size but I think the lawn mower size ones probably last longer since there is alot more metal between valves and sparkplugs. These heads are much cooler than the German VW ones, I proved that whith my head temp sensors. Will now have temp sensor in each cylinder to monitor temp eveness. I wonder what temps these bigger valve heads would give compared to the Mexican tiney valve one? >Well, 50 lbs certainly sounds poor for only 70k. Was this before or after your >failure? On this cylinder, 5 months ago was 115 lbs and last week was 50lbs , this was not working right then I suspect this was happening for 1 week since I pushed the car really hard with cheap gas during the trip to and from Los Angeles. I think I heard knocking and the temp went up 30 to 40 degrees higher than the mean , I guess it was the big hill at 85 mph. Before that week I think the compression was good. A week after I found the compression to be 50 lbs, the engine smoked suddenly and annoyed the HighWay drivers, this was last week. >Higher octane is only useful if you have higher compression ratios, but you may >well have had high compression on the left side, where the failure occurred. >your numbers above tend in this direction, except for #4, which has already >started to fail. If gas is old or below octane specification, even low compression can seem high and knock dangerously, Arco regular and Mexican regular gas are given low ranks by many drivers in these parts. >> After I fix the car, I will paint it the most annoying color I can find, >> maybe tweety bird yellow , any suggestions for the maximum annoying color ? >Now THAT's a really loaded question. I was almost ready to answer when I >realized that I couldn't do so without offending someone.... In my circle of people I am known as annoying even to my family , I think I am not annoying enough so I need tools like car paint. People who are easly offended must be purged..... and absorbed into the more livelier annoying humanity. To annoy is to be noticed, to be noticed is everything, that is why we drive these cars..... Sorry... for the above statements must be the fumes from the government coffee, I don't drink coffee but the fumes are strong. LEON MARTINEZ SAN DIEGO AND TIJUANA ------------------------------------------------------------------- List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org