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On 20 Dec 2002 at 9:25, jason.smith@sarcom.com wrote: > Ok heres the deal. I took the new squareback to my VW mechanic to > have the brakes fixed, the rotors and calipers were shot and I don't like to > mess with the brakes, but anyway, I also had him give an opinion on the > transmission. He said that it was definitely shot and I would need a new > one. But I am not sure how he came to this conclusion, he did not take it > apart, just drove it. So this leaves me with two options. > Option 1, the tranny on my damaged fasty is good so I could swap > them. But this mechanic wants $650 to do a complete swap. > Option 2 is to try and fix it myself. > So here are the questions. I was looking through the bentley for > ideas. After I drain the ATF, should I remove the Valve body assembly and > clean it? If so what should I clean it with? And since I don't have a > compressor, how should I dry it? Is this a very coplicated operation, I > know cleanliness is a must? How do I check the Final Drive gear fluid, do I > need special equipment to fill it? Finally, once I have drained the ATF and > am looking at the Valve Body, what should I look for, metal shards? I also > will be checking the simple things, like suggested, engine tune up, vacuum > mod, cable adjustment, etc. I think it is unlikely that your mechanic knows any more about your AT than I do, and I don't know them well at all. You should START with the engine tuneup, etc. Check the valve adjustments, timing, SPs, compression, etc to make sure it idles well and runs strongly in 1st and 2nd gear. See if that makes any difference in the AT operation. Make sure that the VM has a good connection to the intake air distributor. If that hose is blocked for any reason, 3rd gear operation would be spotty. If no improvement, buy a 0-50 psi gauge with a 1/8"NPT nipple that you can screw into the correct test port of the AT (read this section of the Bentley) and check the adjustment of the VM. Note that you can't do this properly until after the engine is running well. If there is still no improvement, drain the ATF, remove the pan and inspect what you find there. There is a cleanable filter which you should remove and clean. Look for bits of anything that is not red fluid. Bits of metal would be a bad sign. If you find any kind of stuff that might clog up passages, then you can remove the valve body and take it inside and do further cleaning in a clean area. Do this carefully and refer to the Bentley manual. It's not rocket science, but it does require care and attention to cleanliness. I would take one section apart at a time so you don't have any chance to mix up parts. You'll be looking for channels in the valve body that are clogged up, valve balls that are stuck, pistons that are stuck, or piston springs that are broken. You probably want to buy a new pan gasket before you start and be careful not to overtighten the pan bolts when you're done. It's easy to deform the pan and make it leak. To replace the final drive fluid you need a 17mm Allen wrench, 3 qts of GL-5 gear oil, and maybe one of those hand plunger pumps for the oil (unless the gear oil is in squirt bottles.) When you remove the drain plug, watch the fluid as it comes out to make sure it is not full of metal, and look at the drain plug, there is a magnet pressed into it which you should clean around. The magnet will normally be surrounded by black powder which is ground up steel. This is normal as long as it is smooth and creamy. If it is gritty and has chunks in it, then you likely have a problem. If this is the case, I would fill it up and plan to do this test again after a few months of driving, just to see if it is continuing. -- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ------------------------------------------------ To unsubscribe, E-mail to: <type3-off@vwtype3.org> For more help, see http://vwtype3.org/list/