I forgot to mention, if you use stripper be very careful to not get it into
seams, it will never come completely out and cause the paint to fail. I
strip up to the seams and wire-wheel off the remainder
Keith
Top Notch Restorations
topnotch@nycap.rr.com
http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm
71 Squareback "Hothe"
65 Notchback "El Baja Rojo"
65 Squareback "Eggcrate"
87 golf "Winterat"
93 RX7 "Redstur"
-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces@lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces@lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Brent
Bottolfson
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2011 5:31 PM
To: type3-vwtype3.org@lists.vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Undercoat question
I recently applied undercoating to my front fenders and touched up the
rears. The original undercoat on the rear wells was in pretty good
shape, I found rust in one 6" section, and replaced the metal there. I
just touched up the rear factory undercoating, but redid the front.
For the front fenders:
First, I stripped them completely bare metal. I had to use some Jasco
epoxy stripper (it's nasty stuff) to get it all off, especially in the
corners, then sandblasted.
Epoxy primed.
Seam sealed the joints and corners where the original impregnated foam was.
Epoxy primed.
Applied 3M Body Shutz with the special gun.
Epoxy primed again.
Now painting over the undercoating with PPG DCC. They're currently at
the body shop for the final paint, but I did all the rest.
I think it will last a long time. But, I do like Bob's method of no
undercoating too. Easier to keep clean and check for rust. I'd still
seam seal the upper and lower corners as that's where the rust seems to
develop most.
The special gun you need to apply the undercoating is cheap, maybe $15.
-Brent
On 10/30/11 1:24 PM, Bobsnotch@aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 10/30/2011 1:06:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
djsanderson@telus.net writes:
Hi Bob and Keith
Thanks for the comments - even though it seems that I cannot spell
undercoat. I have stripped all the undercoat away and was planning on
first epoxy primer and then the single stage paint that they mixed for
me. That's the paint I used for al the underside of the shell itself.
I had not thought of using the base-clear combination. Bob, do you
think the single stage would be enough or do you prefer, would you
recommend, going to the base-clear combination?
Dave
Dave, look at the manufacturers spec sheet, and see what it says about
clear coating your single stage. On my T-34, I used Concept, and had to
wait 4
hours before I could add a clear coat over it. This is what PPG recommends
for a bonding time (for the clear I was using), to allow both to grab to
each other. Some paints allow you to add some clear to your final coat of
single stage color too. You just have to check the spec sheet. I actually
like
adding a separate coat of clear though, treating the single stage as a
base coat.
Bob 65 Notch S with sunroof and IRS (Krusty)
71 Notch (Krunchy)
64 T-34 Ghia (Wolfie)
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