RE: [T3] '70 square tuning

[Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>]

On 25 May 2007 at 8:23, Adriel Huntington Rowley wrote:

> Well, I also want it to match also.  The old one is fine, but apparently the
> person (Tom's Master Mechanics at 5820 Autopart Mall San Diego, CA 92121
> (who also specializes in Audi and Chrysler)) did not put the distributor
> dive in the engine correctly and the drive dog was slipping.  I was told by
> the P.O. that this can happen if you hit the cam when assembling (which
> already does not sound good to have the cam off).  Volker apparently made an
> adaptation so the drive dog on the Type 4 distributor would not keep
> slipping.  If I was to change it, I could no longer dive it.  I would have
> to tear down the engine, but I do not have the time, money, or knowledge
> (what happened to the days of my Father where help was at hand?). 

This does not make a lot of sense. There's no difference between a 
type 3 drive dog and a type 4 drive dog. Neither of them should have 
any trouble slipping as long as the clamp is flat, and if the clamp 
is warped then both would suffer from the same problem.

If the drive gear is installed wrong, then maybe the type 4 dist 
could be installed in there when the type 3 could not. I don't know 
if the type 4 orientation is different. But if this is the problem, 
then the solution is rather clear: Remove and install the drive gear 
properly. This is something that any VW mechanic should be able to do 
with relative ease. It does not require an engine teardown.

If the cam is installed incorrectly, then the only way to fix that 
would be to tear down the engine, but that would be a problem that is 
COMPLETELY independent of the distributor and its drive gear.

> Why would the vacuum not work?  I have the one on the Type 3, would that
> work on the Type 4?  I am not getting which does not work.  

It's a question of HOW MUCH vacuum you get for a given amount of 
airflow thru the intake. Putting the type 3 vacuum can on the type 4 
dist might work, but then you'd be pairing that with the type 4 
mechanical advance. Would that give you a useful combination? I don't 
know. Maybe, maybe not. Do you feel lucky today?

> Also, gas is not cheap (especially hear where it is the highest in the
> country) so I want to get the best. 

Gas isn't ever going to be cheap here again, so good gas mileage is a 
worthy goal.

My advice is to send me your type 3 distributor to look over. I'll be 
glad to tell you whether it need repairs or not. I can rebuild it or 
not, depending on its needs. At worst you're out less than $100 for a 
good type 3 distributor that you or someone else can install. At 
best, you're just out the shipping for a free clean bill of health.

> P.S. The engine also runs like one of those radials not on all cylinders
> during the five minute warm up (shaking, rattling, and just plain making a
> racket), so maybe the next thing should be a rebuild (even though it has
> 30,000 miles).

Don't jump to conclusions. There's something wrong that's probably 
simple. The fix is probably also simple and cheap. The only hard part 
is finding it.

Do you own an Ohmmeter? It's a $10 investment that will save you lots 
more than its cost. Buy one now and start measuring things. Start by 
measuring the resistance of each spark plug wire from end to end. 
Measure the rotor resistance also.

Let us know what you find.

-- 
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************

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