I agree with what your stating, but the rust problems Im having are not from
the inside. The header that got jet-hotted is very solid and not rusted
thru... the rust is coming thru the jet hot coat on the outside. The
muffler Im having coating rust problems with is also very solid, not rusting
thru from the inside.
I agree though that these coatings will not make the exaust last forever
even if they did keep the outer surface from rusting...
Keith
>
>
>I really don't think there is a high temp paint product out there that can
>can simply be painted on and keep exaust components from rusting... powder
>coating is probably the best shot at it but does anyone know of something
>that will work???
>
You're right about that, Keith...but not for the obvious reasons.
Despite the "modern," high-tech coating ads, the powder coating and the
ceramic hype, all these will do for you is keep your exhaust system
looking great on the outside...as long as you rarely, if ever, start the
engine. This is obviously, therefore, the choice for show goers, but
not for the rest of us, those who actually drive our T-3's, (and other
air-cooleds).
And, the reason is not talked about by these "coating's folks," and that
is because the exhaust systems rust and corrode from the INSIDE. And,
for the most part, (stainless would be an exception here), the systems
aren't coated from the inside out and most of these "exhaust" elements
are H2O and a number of exceedingly corrosive acids as by-products of
the internal combustion, present in destructive quantities when the
engine is COLD.
So, it doesn't matter a wit whether your car had EVER seen water, been
in water or been in high humidity, (water), the problems are INTERNAL
and a function of this type of energy creation, which quite frankly, is
hugely inefficient.
But, that aside, I have found that the best method for extending the
life, (and this is all of which you are humanly capable), is to avoid
driving two blocks or two miles to the store or wherever, (take your
motorcycle, scooter or bicycle here, or better, walk), and make certain
that the air-cooled gets warmed up quickly, (another reason for NOT
disabling the thermostatic systems), and drive it so that the oil temps
stay at 176 degrees MINIMUM, 2K RPM minimum and that occasional hard
driving, (even at 4.00/gallon), helps these cars immeasurably, (even
well-tuned stockers have a sweet spot at 3.5 - 4K RPM) There is a
reason that these cars had long lives in the drizzle, rain, snow and
salt of the no-speed-limit autobahn systems...they were frequently
passing me in my "enhanced" Triumph Spitfire!
Bottom line: save your shekels and live with raw steel, (and cover it in
the rain and snow outside)...or buy stainless...good luck on fabricating
one of these for a T-3. Let us all know how that turns out.
Hope this helps,
FE Meek
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