RE: Perfecting a '71 Sunroof

["Adriel Huntington Rowley" <architect_7@hotmail.com>]

On 3 Jun 2007 at 8:27, Adriel Huntington Rowley wrote:

>> That would explain why pulling the blue wire would affect the engine.  I
>> found the V.R. (it is original according to the P.O., and it is the shiny
>> one) and a blue wire.  I grounded it on the body, and it did not turn on
>>the
>> generator light.  

>Did you do this with the engine running? Did you touch it to a good 
>clean grounded body part?

Well, I tried it with the engine running; no difference.

> But now when I turn on the hazards I have the turn signal
> indicator lights, plus my fuel gauge acts like a metronome for the clicks.
> I must say this is becoming like the Herby movies.

>I appreciate the humor of this, but I'm concerned that you're 
>confusing yourself by mixing up your problems. You have 2 or 3 
>separate problems. They are unrelated. I strongly recommend that you 
>deal with them one at a time. Start with the charging system.

When the world ends, and all else as failed, humor will be still around.
Okay, I will worry with this later. 

>> So, can I drive it as is?  What about the turn signal assembly rebuild?

>You can drive it, but until the charging system is working your gas 
>mileage will be terrible. Have you done the voltage test in the FAQ I 
>sent you? What is the result of that?

I passed inspection, except the generator light.  I have around 12 volts
starting, all the way to 14.28.  So, I would take that the wiring is faulty,
because the generator is producing, and the regulator is keeping the voltage
under 14.5.  Thus, I only did procedures one through three.

I am now thinking of carefully labeling every wire on the fuse box, and
clean it up.  But how do I go about it since sandpaper is verboten?  It had
something spilled on it; parts of it are covered in a thick layer of
greenish-white crud. After this I will replace the switch, which I
supposedly have a working one.  But, I still want an anti-theft device that
looked decent, and/or was not a trouble to do/use.  What do you suggest?  

>I may be able to rebuild your TS switch, but I need all your old 
>parts. Remove the switch carefully and mail it to me. Email me 
>directly once you have it out, and I will send you my address. 
>Depending on the amount of damage the price will range from $30 to 
>$60 to repair it. It's also possible that it's been broken too badly 
>to repair, but I won't know that until I see it.

Okay, I will check my bread stash.  I have two which I will send you, and
you can decide on the best candidate.  Also, I will send you my old
distributor to be inspected, and if need be, have it rebuilt.  I already
have your address, B.T.W.

>The main thing for you to keep in mind is to not damage it any more 
>in the process of removing it, and to make sure you gather up ALL the 
>small parts that fell out of it when it broke.

I learned this on the first the hard way, and bought a replacement.  This
replacement is also faulty, and a broken part was sent with it.  Oh, and
when I put in the turn signal unit, I treated it like putting on a wheel;
start one fastener, and then do the opposite one, etc.  I am careful with
everything, and have been getting the habit of thinking where the greatest
stress load will be.  If in the wrong place, I adjust accordingly.  


Sincerely,
Adriel H. Rowley

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