Some good points, I had a dust mask on and a fan behind me to blow the
stuff
off in the other direction. The only time Ive been dry sanding is to get
this UPOL stuff off, the rest of my sanding is wet sanding... gee, can the
Isocyanate get absorbed thru the skin from the dust slurry? That could be
an issue!
Im pretty careful with the 2pak stuff, keeping it off my skin and wearing
a
good respiratior and simply not spending much time in the booth with the
mist....
I had one kid that really wanted to watch me spray, so I wrapped him up in
a
sheet and had him hold his breath... and since he was a star swimmer on
the
high school team he had a 2 minute breath hold... damn kid didn't NEED a
respirator!!! Id get a fender or 2 sprayed and keep thinking he was about
to drop... but yea... TWO minutes!
Unreal!
Keith
Subject: Re: [T3] The new primer filler
The RM EP epoxys are awsome, they have a grey green which was the better
of
the range, ease of use etc. Hard primers are good, they have a tighter
"knit", and are less likely to shirnk. Check your tin and just make sure
that IS dosn't stand for issocyanate. Issocyanates are usually only found
in
2pak hardeners. You will need to wear a dust mask when dry sanding, and
blowing the car down. Don't get me wrong there is plenty of other harmfull
chemicals in paint that will do damage a lot quicker, you will just need
to
exercise a little more caution, and bear in mind who is standing around
watching. General rule of thumb when spraying, if the audiance can't smell
the paint your spraying, then they are out of harms way. Always wear a
spray
mask, air feed is better, but not economical for the hobbiest, as they
cost
as much as a decent spray gun, but still a dam sight cheaper than lungs.
Some paint companies have a machine called a colour spectrafratometer
(please excuse the spelling), which will scan, annalise and print out a
formula, for the paint scanned, you will just need to supply a painted
peice
to scan. The size of the metalic flake may not match exactly, but actual
colour likness is usually quite good, and the technician will be able to
subtitute the metalic flake if needed.
James NZ 67 Fast Back.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Park" <topnotch@nycap.rr.com>
To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2007 2:52 PM
Subject: [T3] The new primer filler
Well, yesterday I sanded off all the UPOL primer on the sunroof section,
and
one of the front fenders, I skimmed all the bondo sections again and
blocked
them down and then shot them with the new "straight to metal" Primer
surfacer that I got. Its IS an acetone reducer... and I do like this
stuff
better. It flows better, not great, but better... so the application is
a
bit smoother.
It's a HARDER primer, and seems to have a less chalky and more durable
feel
to it... harder to block out but not terribly so... I am happier with the
feel of this stuff.
Im not sure I can even get the Epoxy primer surfacer in VOC compliant
mix,
I
used to use the RM EP889 an loved it!, nice build, flowed out, easy to
sand
and never had any problems with durability.
Hopefully this new primer is durable too...
Keith
Top Notch Restorations
topnotch@nycap.rr.com
http://members.aol.com/radiorest/main.htm
71 Squareback
65 Notchback "El Baja Rojo"
65 Squareback "Eggcrate"
87 golf "Winterat"
93 RX7 "Redstur"
97 Ford Escort "Meathead"
and if your looking for the Opel:
www.opelgt.com
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