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Hope that's the case - it is bound to help anyway. I'd be worried to dismantle one the way Russ said, let alone with a saw as Toby did. Since I don't have auto it won't be a problem for me. I wonder what aspect of an auto needs that electrical AAR rather than the oil-heated one that the manual FI uses. Dave. UK VW Type 3 & 4 Club http://www.hallvw.clara.co.uk/ ------ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Constantino Tobio" <ctobio@gmail.com> To: <type3@vwtype3.org> Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 10:14 PM Subject: Re: [T3] AAR Resolved, and some questions about idle. > Dave Hall wrote: > > >The heaters in the auto AAR valve look much like the auto-choke heaters on > >carbs. My guess is theye elements get thin and high resistance as they corrode. > >ISTR a new choke heater element came to around 12 ohms and an old to more like > >20 when I measured them recently. Maybe this is what has happened here, so the > >valve doesn't get hot enough for the bimetal coil to close it completely. I > >guess an internal adjastment may be needed if you can do what Russ suggested. > > > > > My AAR registers 13-14 ohms, and it does get warm to the touch, though > not particularly hot. Judging from the pictures there's not much to the > internal coil. It could still be binding and it just needs a whole bunch > of heat cycles to get nice and loose. It could also work a lot better on > an actual warm engine with the lid on, not an engine that's been idling > for 20 minutes in my 25 degree garage. :) > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~