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Re: lights


On 21 Feb 2006 at 20:45, type3weezer@comcast.net wrote:

> I've narrowed it down to the switch. I tested the fuse box with the meter,
> everything read 12 volts. I "hot wired" a line from the battery to the wire
> to the rear lights and they light up fine so I know the lights work. 

This doesn't sound right. If you had 12V at the fuse box, then that would mean 
that the 12 V had gotten thru the switch okay. This doesn't sound like a 
problem with the switch.

> So I ordered the switch from my local VW guy and hopefully the correct
> switch will come in. If not I may have to continue this thread in the
> future. 

I think it's going to be very hard to get the right switch for your '65 thru 
normal retail channels. At this point, however, it doesn't sound to me like you 
need one, and if you get one this way, you're likely to pay thru the nose for 
it.

You should be able to find the problem by turning the switch ON and then use 
the voltmeter to measure voltage between different points in the circuit and 
ground. Start at the switch, and work your way step by step toward the rear 
lights. You've already said that you had voltage at the fuses, but did you mean 
at the rear light fuses or just <somewhere> on the fuse box. "Somewhere" 
doesn't mean anything in this case, since you need to have 12V at the rear 
light fuses.

Once you find 12V at some point in this chain and no 12V at some later point 
you know that the break in the circuit is somewhere in between. Just keep using 
the voltmeter to narrow things down until you know exactly where the break is. 
Then examine it and fix it.

I apologize if I've misunderstood something you've done, or if I've not got the 
right idea for the wiring for your year correctly in mind, but it just seems to 
me that you've made a wrong, and potentially costly, mis-diagnosis here.

-- 
Jim Adney
jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711-3054
USA

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