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On 17 Feb 2006 at 14:14, Constantino Tobio wrote: > It looks ok with that RF tie rod, but I'm going to be under there again > before she's on the road for real. Since I had the car up in the air and > I unlocked the steering column, I was able to turn my wheels lock to > lock while under there. The only contact I saw was when the wheels were > at their maxiumum turn to the left(?) that the long tie rod would touch > the return line coming from the chassis tube. Not enough to pinch it, > though. It'll be rather infrequent that I turn the wheel all the way > like that in all but parking curcumstances. Take another look at it and see if there's anything you can do to keep it from touching at all. Occasional touching will eventually wear thru. Keep in mind also that the suspension pieces will move "up" once there is weight on the wheels, so what you have now may not touch at all, unless you get airborne. > Yes... the 5/16 hose was a real tight fit- I actually had to put a tiny > little bit of liquid soap on the hose barbs to be able to slip it on, For fuel lines, I'd recommend oil as a lubricant. > >Those grommets have always been a problem. I'll have to see if I can find some > >of them here, because the OE ones are a real struggle to get the Goodyear hose > >thru. > > > > > > > Well, the Lowes ones look good- but 1/2" is too tight an ID for the > grommet for the hose to go through. 5/8 is a better choice. > > I gave some thought to putting in a bulkhead fitting in here instead of > pushing the hose through the grommet, but it won't work well there. > Alternatively I thought about getting some 5/16" steel tubing and custom > bending a metal line to go from the transmission side of the bulkhead to > nearer the #3 injector. Yes, Bob Hoover recommends something like this for beetles. You can make a bulkhead fitting from a piece of tubing soldered into a 3/8" threaded lamp fitting. Then you can bend one end like you say. I've never done this, but it would probably be a good idea, because this is the tightest bend on the car for a pressurized fuel line. > >I run the CSV hose over the top and then down BETWEEN the 2 FI air runners. > >It's a bit of a squeeze, but it works well, with no sharp bends and avoids > >conflicts with everything. > In retrospect, this does seem like the right thing to do. I thought > about it, wasn't 100% sure, but yeah, I'll do it this way. It should > take all of 10 minutes to reroute. Yes, it's snug, but not at all difficult. For best access think a bit about how you want the hose clamp screw head oriented when you're done. > >Cars with EGR got a different pressure regulator and different "Tee" at the > >right injectors. Those special parts have nipples that bend upwards (or > >something...?) to loop around the EGR valve. I'd have to take a look at my '73 > >to be sure, but I know they are supposed to be different. Does this sound like > >what you have? > Yes, the pressure regulator, rather than have the return inlet sticking > straight out at a 90deg angle relative to the adjuster screw, it comes > out and doglegs, pointing rearwards. Okay, that sounds right. How about the special Tee at the right injectors? Was the front end bent also? I just don't remember that detail. > This was a real tight squeeze to tighten the hoseclamp. A long > screwdriver helps here immensely. Around 1990, I got to replace that short hose, which still happened to be OEM, on New Year's Eve. The temp was well below zero, there was a strong wind, putting the wind chill even colder, we were on the road, and I was doing the repair in a wide open parking lot near a hardware store where I could run in occasionally and warm up, as well as buy tools. I think with the frozen fingers and all, it took me about 3 hours to do the job. I was in tears.... > I've tested out all the plug wires- they're on spec for resistance, > though one annoyance is that at the distributor cap end they're not > right angle, but straight out connectors like on a Type 1. I see no > evidence that they're contacting the engine lid. They're Bosch wires, so > I'm loathe to just ditch them if everything seems ok. I'm going to be > pulling the plugs, inspecting them and probably swapping them (I have a > new Bosch set). They are almost surely touching. If the foil under your engine cover is still intact, fix this now or you'll regret it. I have good used OE right angle ends which you can screw onto your existing wires, or you can buy a proper Bosch set, which I also have in stock. The OE ends are more expensive, but they will last forever. > I need to remove some corrosion from the terminals inside the > distributor cap- maybe this was causing a weak spark?. Emery cloth or > steel wool here? Do nothing. There are 2 insulators there: an air gap and the corrosion layer. Of these 2, the air is probably a 100 times better insulator; the corrosion layer adds insignificantly to any overall problem. > I'm hoping that I'll have incidentally fixed the hard cold starting > problem with the various tasks I've done. If the car still starts hard, > I'll need to look deeper into a few things. The stuff so far was stuff I > was going to do anyway. There will probably be some unexpected problems, but you've done the right thing by getting all the simple things in order first. What's left is likely to be minor. -- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~