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On 8 Feb 2006 at 10:51, type3weezer@comcast.net wrote: > I took the dash switch down the other day just to have a look at it and here > is what I can tell you. The switch has about 6 terminals on it. Both the grey > and blue and the grey and black(?) wires are connected to it on seperate > terminals. The same two colored wires come off the fuse box then run along > the left side of the body and split right below the air intake on the side of > the car, one wire going to each side. And again the switch has never been > apart. I would check for voltage at the output points on the switch, then at both ends of the fuses. > Yes the front and rear lights are on differnet fuses 3 different fuses? And you've checked them all? > When I turn on the headlights the parking lights do still go off. But the > parking lights do not come on at any time. I assume you mean Fronts and Rears here. Since I believe it's your rears which are giving you trouble, look for a "58" molded into the plastic next to the wire that feeds the rear lights, just to verify that this wire is connected to the correct terminal. With the switch pulled out either half-way or all the way you should see voltage on terminal 58. If you don't, then there must be a problem with the switch. You can make a useful analogy between plumbing and electricity. Voltage is like water pressure. If you're at the end of your water pipe and you have no pressure, then you walk back along the line testing for pressure at various places where you have access. Once you find pressure, you know that the problem is somewhere between where you find pressure and where there is no pressure. Your voltmeter is your "pressure" meter. When testing for voltage, you always put one probe to a good chassis ground, so that you're measuring the "pressure" difference between chassis and the other probe. Set your meter to read volts, with a range setting just above the highest "pressure" you would expect to see on your car. On your car you would use the DC settings. On 110 V AC services you would use the AC setting. Try playing with it on a D-cell, then on your car battery just so you get to see how the meter normally responds. Then move on to more interesting things. Until you're more aware of what you're doing, just don't ever use any settings or inputs marked current, A, Amps, or mA. -- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~