Re: [T3] 65 Square brakes

[Chris Wright <Christopher.Wright@Sun.COM>]

<x-flowed>One way to get it off if it's really stuck  is to drill into the nut 
with a 1/8th drill, a series of holes close together in from a flat 
(obviously stopping short of the thread) and then a couple again in from 
the face across them, and then tap it with a hammer and cold chisel in 
the holes.  weakened by the holes it spreads and expands and unscrews 
easily.  Of course you'll need a replacement nut, but with a smear of 
copperease on it when you replace it, it'll require less effort to 
tighten than the old one took to undo and a half inch drive socket will 
be sufficient.  To get to the right 217ft/lb torque, stand on some 
bathroom scales and use a 3 foot lever and tighten until the scales show 
around a 72 pound change to your weight.  (217 foot pounds/3).  Stop 
when you get near a split pin hole and take it easy, you don't want to 
go past the nearest hole.

Chris

DAVID WYATT wrote:

> As soon as I get them off and look at them I'll post some pics and what ever 
> info I can gleam from them.
> Have to borrow/buy a 36mm socket first to get that axel nut off.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
> To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
> Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 7:34 AM
> Subject: Re: [T3] 65 Square brakes
>
>
>  
>
> > On 17 Aug 2006 at 21:32, DAVID WYATT wrote:
> >
> >    
> >
> > > It didn't take much effort at all to twist that nipple off. I didn't 
> > > feel
> > > that I was exerting that much torque on it at the time.
> > > I was a Helicopter Maintenance Officer and Test Pilot in the Army. So I 
> > > do
> > > believe in using the right torque. My A** was on the line.
> > >      
> > ;-)
> >
> > What I would do now is take them off and send them to me. I will heat them 
> > up
> > and try to anneal the ez-outs. Once they are softer, I would try to drill 
> > them
> > out with a left hand drill. That usually takes them right out when there's 
> > no
> > ez-out in there, but I don't know how successful I'll be in this case.
> >
> > The rear bleed valves are M6 x 1 thread and I have replacements, but I 
> > agree
> > that they should have been a little bigger.
> >
> > I also have rebuilt 7/8 type 3 wheel cylinders as well as a few other odd
> > sizes, but it would still be best if I could see your old ones to make 
> > sure you
> > got the right replacements.
> >
> > --
> > Jim Adney
> > jadney@vwtype3.org
> > Madison, WI 53711-3054
> > USA
> >
> > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org
> > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> >
> >
> >    
>
>  

</x-flowed>