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I got this question from Ark Mirvis, the Heaterman, a few days ago. He's rejoined our list and has a '72 that he is about to resurrect. On 1 Aug 2006 at 8:07, Arkady Mirvis wrote: > I do have several questions. > The engine was not turned over regularly during the years. So in order > to lubricate the cylinders prior to start, I used about 1/4 of an ounze > of Marvel oil blown ( using compressed air ) into each cylinder > thorough the spark plug hole. > The engine crank was then turned for several revolutions. The engine > has started, puffing a lot of smoke. Soon the smoking was reduced, it > is not there for 5-10 minutes after the engine start, but it starts > soon when the engine warms up. Some tell me that I will need to drive > for at least 10 miles to burn the oil out. Will it really take that > long? I can imagine that it might take significant running to make the smoking go away. A lot would depend on where the smoke is coming from. If oil has soaked into the heat exchangers, this will smoke for a long time. Mouse nests in the engine could cook for equally long. One would expect that smoking coming out of the tailpipe should disappear after a few minutes, but I suspect that running the engine under some load (while driving) would be more likely to get the rings to seal than just running with no load. Note that after sitting this long, your brakes are not likely to be working, so driving right now might be a bad idea. > The engine has some knocking sound, I was told is originating in the > exhaust system or in the exhaust recirculating system. Can this be? A knocking sound could be a serious internal engine problem. I would try to listen with a long screwdriver, blunt end in one ear, to figure out more precisely where the sound is coming from. If the knocking is "tinny" then it could be one of the external heat shields on the muffler. It's also possible that it's a baffle inside, but I've never heard them come loose. Neither of those is a major problem, but if the sound is more of a deep thud, then I'd worry about a rod bearing, and this would require engine disassembly to repair. The EGR is NOT a possibility, unless you're talking about a single "knock" that you hear when you first turn the key ON. That single knock is the normal sound of the EGR valve energizing. > I do need a diagram of all air hoses connecting engine components. > Description of what is connected to what will be great. Your best bet is to get a Bentley manual, which you'll want anyway. They are still in print, but only the early printings have the wiring diagrams in full color, so these are more desirable. I have some early Bentley manuals available for sale. Someone else on the list might know where a simple vacuum hose diagram is posted on the Web. The '72 timing specs are unique, since that is the only 'FI year that has both vacuum advance and vacuum retard. The ONLY manual that I've found that gives those timing instructions correctly is the Bentley. Glad to have you back on the list, Ark. Please ask more questions as your progress continues. -- ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~