Re: [T3] Push rod tube oil seal replacement

[BOB2TYPE3S@aol.com]

In a message dated 4/20/06 10:12:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
whmcc@attglobal.net writes:

<< Is this about right?  Are there Type 3 peculiarities/differences?  
 Anyone else done this as an isolated procedure, engine in?  Is this 
 procedure worth doing?  I am pleased now to not have the "gas in the 
 oil" problem---Betty now "uses oil" rather than being full all the time, 
 and I look upon this as a step in the right direction---but now I am 
 embarrassed to be polluting the environment, and having to check/refill 
 the oil frequently, especially if this is a simple fix. >>

Nope. Our beloved t-3's are more like our t-1 (bug) cousins in this respect. 
For our cars, the cylinder head has to come off. This is a major job in the 
car, and a little better out of the car. :O  You have to pull the head out about 
1.5 inches to get the push rod tubes to clear both the head and the case. If 
you have FI, this means removing it too, or the carb has to be removed (on the 
side you're working on), along with the cooling tin. To do this job, also 
requires removing the rocker arms, so you can access the 4 lower bolts that hold 
the head on. The upper bolts are under the cooling tin, and behind the FI 
runners or carbs, that's why they have to come off.

 Mine leak too, but then I've been feeding the leak (and keeping a close eye 
on the oil level) for over 4 years, due to the fact that I'm waiting to pull 
the motor out for a rebuild (the best time to fix them) in the next month or 
so, but preferably sooner, as I want to freshen it up for it's road trip to the 
T-3 Invasion. : ) I hope this helps.

Bob 65 Notch S w/ Sunroof and IRS
       71 Square, now a 2 seat Roadster, pics can be seen at; 
http://volksrods.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2977 and now has a running 2.0L  t-4 with 
D-jet FI engine, just trying to finish up the details. : )
       

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