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Jim's reply:DIZZY HAD A NEW CONDENSOR FITTED AND IVE TRIED AN ALTERNATIVE THE DIAG TEST CONFIRMED IT WAS OK
I was afraid that you'd already done all these rather obvious things, but thought it was worth mentioning. How about the condensor? I've never seen a bad Bosch one, but have you tried a replacement?
I'm not familiar with the early distributors, but if there's a wire in there that flexes as the dist advances, you should consider the possiblity that the wire itself is broken under the insulation. I've seen that happen, and you can only tell it by pulling rather hard on the wire to see if the insulation stretches and breaks.THERE IS A BRAID WHICH IS SOLDERED ONTO THE NEW VAC UNIT WHICH IS SECURELY SCREWED TO THE ADVANCE PLATE.
THEY HAVE INSULATED RIGHTANGLE COVERS ON THE DIZZY END AND I ALSO TRIED RUNNING WITH A RUBBER MAT BETWEEN THE LID AND THE ENGINE!
Additional info, if you think it's still possibly ignition, the advance is as per the specs for the dizzy, with max 11degrees of vacuum advance and 17 degrees of centrifugal advance at 4200rpm.
I don't think that details of the advance curve will cause your symptoms. It's rather common for the mech advance to be frozen up completely, but this only results in very poor power. There are lots
On 26 Sep 2005 at 10:02, chris wright wrote:
You can imagine it best by imagining accelerating on a very bumpy road so
that the car jerks over the bumps.
To me this sounds more like ignition "miss" than anything else. I would be looking at ignition problems.
I'VE FITTED A NEW BOSCH SET OF SILICON LEADS AND CAPS AND ALSO TRIED SUBSTITUTING A COPPER CORED LEAD INTO EACH CYLINDER IN TURN. - NO CHANGE.
Unless this wire set has the right angle connectors on the dist cap ends, there is some chance that they will arc over to the engine cover. You might check this by seeing if the problem persists if you drive without the engine cover.
IT IS LOOKING OK BUT I CAN'T VOUCH FOR THE LENGTH OR STRENGTH OF THE SPRING. IVE TRIED GIVING IT A SMALL STRETCH.
Check the cap, inside and out, for dirt, carbon tracks, and moisture.
IT'S CLEAN AND NO APPARENT DAMAGE, BUT I'VE ORDERED A NEW ONE. I'M STILL ON THE ORIGINAL SO THIS IS STILL A POSSIBILITY. GETTING ONE FOR A 64 ONE YEAR ONLY DIZZY IS NOT EASY!
The Bosch caps seem to last forever. In general, I only see them damaged when abused, never just from use. Is the carbon contact inside the top center still there, protruding and spring loaded?
NO PINGING UNDER ANY CONDITIONS. I TRIED 98OCTANE BUT NO DIFFERENCE. WOULDN'T GOING FROM 1500s PISTONS TO 1600 FLAT TOP LOWER THE COMPRESSION RATIO?
I'VE NOT USED IT IN THE RAIN LATELY AND IV'E DRIVEN TO WORK SEVERAL TIMES IN THE SUN, A 40 MILE EACH WAY TRIP.
THE PROBLEM GOES AWAY COMPLETELY AFTER ABOUT 30 MILES OF MIXED DRIVING BUT COMES BACK WHEN NEXT ITS RUNNING COLD.
It need not be rain. Just dew can cause problems, but the worst are cold damp mornings, during or after a rain, when the humidity is 100% and every surface of the car is covered with dew. It's there, even though you don't notice it.
I wonder if another possibility is that what you're feeling is a slight pinging. Have you tried higher octane gas? Upping the displacement from 1500 to 1600 would also up the compression ratio a bit, and this could be blindsiding you.
BTW, it's best not to change the subject line within a thread. This helps keep all the different responses together. It looks like you've fixed your "Reply to:" setup; thanks, that helped.
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Subject: Re: [T3] response from Jim Adney re jerky acceleration From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 12:37:23 -0500 To: type3@vwtype3.org
On 26 Sep 2005 at 12:32, Jim Adney wrote:
I don't think that details of the advance curve will cause your symptoms. It's rather common for the mech advance to be frozen up completely, but this only results in very poor power. There are lots
I see that I got interrupted and forgot to finish this sentence. I meant to say that there are lots of people out there who only drove VWs with the advance shafts frozen, and they have a distorted view of the power our cars can put out.
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Subject: [T3] Trouble with Jim's Square From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 14:06:32 -0500 To: type3@vwtype3.org
I think my car's trying to get back at me for years of neglect. I'm used to it's being just completely reliable, but you may remember that I had to put new spark plugs in it recently because the old ones were almost completely worn down.
Now it's come up with a new problem. I don't get any fuel pressure, even though all the electronics and relays are working correctly. I had thought that the fuel pump was giving out, but I was misled by the fact that I could hear the pump running when I turned the key ON and when I pushed my purge button.
It's now apparent that the electrical connector on the side of the pump is not making reliable contact, so the pump will run and make some noise, but it's not really creating any real pressure. In fact, it won't even put out enough pressure to clear the air out of the fuel lines.
I moved the plug in and out a few times thinking that I could just break thru whatever corrosion that had formed there, but this morning that didn't help. I suspect that the connector started getting resistive recently and eventually got the female part hot enough that it is now annealed. I'll take it apart and check it, but I suspect that I'll have to replace it to make it reliable again.
Time to get out the soldering iron and shrink wrap.
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Subject: Re: [T3] Need a little help From: "Kurt Schatz" <kfschatz@earthlink.net> Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 15:36:08 -0500 To: "T3 List" <type3@vwtype3.org>
Thanks for the advise, I am on the T34 list but thought I would get a
better response from the T3 List. I know of a Square Back I will obtain for
parts, great looking car and 100% original. The poor thing has rot from the
attaching points through the rockers.
The pans are new (cheap ones) for the Type 14. I cut out the entire right
side except for the edge that attaches to the body. I then braced the
outside edge and began shaping the Type 14 pan. I have been working with
metal all my life and with a lot of heat, LARGE hammers and huge anvil they
are taking shape. I am not that good but I know of no one who would even
attempt this repair. Nor do I think I could afford to pay for a weeks worth
of labor. So far one week = one pan tack welded into place.
Kurt Schatz kfschatz@earthlink.net
points?[Original Message] From: Steven Ayres <comwest@att.net> To: T3 List <type3@vwtype3.org> Date: 9/26/2005 12:58:43 AM Subject: Re: [T3] Need a little help
KurtS=> rebuilding a 1964 T34.
You'll probably like to join the Type 34 list as well. Check us out at type34.org.
=> a source for the rubber that goes around the front axle attaching
The beam rubbers are not available new. You'll need to part a junk Type 3 (they're the same for all models) or get 'em from another listee. Someone will pipe up here, I'm sure.
=> struggling to graft a Karmann Ghia pan to the T34
You mean a Type 14 pan I expect, and I'll infer the floor pieces rather than the whole Type 1 pan, correct? Yeah, that's not a job I'd want.
Steven Ayres, Prescott AZ '66 Big Ghia
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