Re: [T3] Auto and manual engines

[Russ Wolfe <russw@classicvw.org>]

On Sat, 2005-10-08 at 09:29, Dave Hall wrote:
> Just been asked what problems might be encountered if a 73 twin carb auto engine
> is swapped with a 71 twin carb manual.
> 
> I came up with the following:-
> 
> There's a sealing cap on the front (front is front) of the engine that is put in
> with the hollow outwards on the auto and inwards on the manual. Apparently the
> auto torque convertor can destroy the base of this plug if it is fitted with the
> bottom outwards, producing a large oil leak.
> 
> The gland nut is different - use the one from the auto.
> 
> Front cover plate - use auto one.
> 
> Carbs and balance pipes - use auto ones.
> 
> Distributor - use auto one as the advance curve is different.   Actually, the 71
> manual might have a dual vacuum distributor - mine has.
> 
> Apparently he has already started using the manual distributor as the auto one
> failed a couple of months ago - not sure if he has done anything about the dual
> vac aspect though.
> 
> Anything wrong, or missed out?
> 
I think the camshaft plug is the most important. Unless it has been
reversed already. I know I do on all the engines I build. Keeps the
sealer off your fingers while putting it in. 
Also, the gland nut is important.
And also, the automatic has a cut-out at the lower area of the case for
access to the torque converter bolts. This can be implemented with a a
drill/grinder and a burr. Just be careful of the fire hazard while doing
this. Do it outside.

-- 
Russ Wolfe
'71 FB AT
'66 FB MT
'64 T34 (not running)
'65 T1 (not running)
'05 KIA Sorento SUV
russw@classicvw.org
http://www.classicvw.org

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