Re: [T3] FI to Carbs by PO not running right. UPDATE OPPS

[BOB2TYPE3S@aol.com]

It sucks when you hit the wrong button. Damn, I must have gotten up too early 
this morning and am getting tired. ; )

In a message dated 11/11/05 7:53:22 PM Eastern Standard Time, comwest@att.net 
writes:

<< RichardG=> The 3,4 bank does not fire
 
 OK, first I'd check to be sure he's getting fuel in the left carb. 
 Looking down the venturi and giving the linkage a twist ought to do it. 
 (This is basic, I know, but ...) If there's no fuel, put the old float 
 valve back in (don't forget the thick washer!) and check again. Still 
 nothing: check for a fuel-line blockage after the split. (All new fuel 
 lines, right?)
 
 You said he checked for spark, I'll infer that he thinks he's getting 
 spark OK on 3/4. He's probably right, but I'll add that it can fool you 
 if you don't check for spark *at the electrode*. This is not a likely 
 problem for two cylinders.
 
 Recheck that the spark plug lines are connected to the correct 
 cylinders. The Type 3 distributor is set up at a different angle than 
 the Type 1. (If he's using a Type 1 manual or Type 1 or 2 experience, it 
 can trip him up.)
 
 => he can pump the carb, hear the sizzling and then sees smoke.
 
 If he's seeing it inside the throat, it's probably just fuel vapor from 
 a warm manifold. Normal.
This problem is very likely something simple. >>

I agree with Steven, it's a simple problem, but it might take an hour or so 
to find it. Like Russ and Jim A. keep telling us, use an ohm meter on the wires 
(0 to 1000 ohms from end to end), and verify that they're good. The little 
brown insulators too (they should be 1000 ohms each). Valves should be checked 
to see if they're in spec (never hurts, and only takes 15 to 20 minutes to 
check). While you're there, check the point gap, and look for carbon tracking on 
the cap. I realize that this might start sounding like an FI check list, but it 
also applies to carbs. : )  Sometimes it's the little things that trip you 
up. :O My son's car had a couple of bad insulators, and a miss that we spent 
some time searching for. Once we corrected that it ran great.

 Now we can move to the fuel system. Verify that you've got fuel to both 
carbs. Now look down the throats and see if you can see a visible squirt from both 
when moving the throttle linkage. Also pay attention to any leakage or 
dribbling on after releasing (a sign of a bad needle and seat). I've had this crop 
up a few times in the last couple of years. Any carb not flowing any fuel from 
the throttle test, needs to have the top removed and the needle and seat 
checked for debris clogging the entrance, or fuel just not flowing (clog or 
restriction in the hose or passage way, or a possible pump trying to go bad). If you 
have fuel, and spark, then all you need is compression for the engine to run. 
any one of these missing will cause it to have a problem. I hope this helps.

Bob 65 Notch S w/ Sunroof and IRS
       71 Square, now a 2 seat Roadster, pics can be seen at; 
http://volksrods.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2977 and now awaiting a 2.0L  t-4 engine 
transplant
       69 Square AT, daily beater Sold back to the PO :O

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