Re: [T3] Passed test - good and bad news

[Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>]

On 20 May 2005 at 9:11, Daniel Baum wrote:

> OK. Let's say I let myself get talked into doing the job myself. It's 
> happened before. I really need to know what it involves before I get 
> started. I can most likely get some help in taking the engine out etc.

You must disconnect all the wires, cables and hoses from the engine. This 
includes the heater wires and hoses and the accelerator cable. Remove the air 
cleaner. Disconnect the front end of the air intake bellows and roll it all the 
way inside the body of the car.

Go under the engine and remove the 3 bolts that secure the drive plate to the 
TC.

Support the engine on a jack that you can roll, and string a wire thru a hole 
in the top of the AT case to support the rear of the AT when the engine is 
gone.

Remove the 4 bolts/nuts that attach the engine to the AT and the 4 bolts at the 
outer ends of the rear engine mount.

Get a friend to help. One person holds the engine with his legs spread wide 
apart, balancing it on the jack while standing above it, while the other 
"drives" the jack, working between the legs of the first person. Back the 
engine out and down, watching all the while to make sure that you're not 
catching on something.

Once the engine is out, the TC can just be pulled straight out of the bell 
housing. The seal is right there then.

When you're done, make SURE that the TC is pushed ALL the way back into 
position. A straightedge run along the face of the bell housing, should clear 
the TC once it is all the way in. There are several sets of splines which have 
to be engaged correctly, and it's easy to overlook that. BTDT.  ;-p

> - Is there any way to be completely sure what's leaking before I start? Or, 
> once I've got everything apart, will it be obvious where the leak is coming 
> from?

I'd do a "load test" with the car on jacks while you look for the leak. There's 
a significant chance that the source of the leak is external. Check especially 
the pan seal, the governor cover O-ring, the gear lever control shaft, the 
filler pipe seal, and the 4 bolts that hold the AT to the final drive. It might 
help to overfill it a bit, just to make sure that the leak is below the ATF 
level.

> I've read that there is a seal between the tranny and the final drive
> which can also leak. Should I change this while I'm at it? I assume
> the tranny needs to come for this? 

That seal would not cause a leak of fluid out onto the ground. It would only 
allow gear oil to get into the AT, or vice versa. It's a fair amount of extra 
work to get to, but Russ would be the expert on that. I've never had to replace 
one, and I hope that luck holds.

> What about the engine oil seal?

Once you're this far apart, it's an appropriate thing to replace. You'll have 
to drill a pair of holes in a long bar to hold the drive plate while you 
remove/torque the gland nut. When the drive plate is out, use some 400-600 grit 
wet/dry sandpaper to polish the sealing surface on the drive plate. 

Pry the old seal out, oil the new seal and drive it flush with the case with a 
board in front of it, then use the old seal to drive it below flush so that it 
seats against the shoulder there.

Clean and oil the drive plate sealing surface and install and torque it to ~225 
ft lbs.

-- 
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Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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