Re: [T3] Rear panel replacement tips?

[BOB2TYPE3S@aol.com]

In a message dated 3/17/05 8:31:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
topnotch@nycap.rr.com writes:

<<  That seam DOES need to be sealed though, I used RTV.

Don't you work for GE? That would expain the RTV use. : )
 
 >
 > 2. This panel does not have the holes for the license plate bracket.
 > Does someone have the measurements of where to install the captured nuts
 > for the bracket?
 >>I cant get at my Notch's back right now, but if you can wait it will be out
 in a month or so.

I could get to mine in the afternoon, but I think he really needs the 
measurement from a Fastback. I guess the body shop didn't return the old bent one. :( 
 >
 > 3. Any suggestions on a coating for the back of the rear panel?  I was
 > thinking a weld-through primer would be good, and perhaps getting some
 > paint in there through the ductwork once its installed.
 
 >>PRime and paint BEFORE installing it. the spot welds need the paint 
 >>off that part though.

Very good advice. I'd even go as far as using epoxy primer there, along with 
as far inside the inlet sides as I could get, because once capped, you 
wouldn't get back in.

 > I think that once I get the remaining spot welds drilled out, and hammer
 > and dolly the pieces that will be retained, installing and lining up the
 > panel itself will be a cinch.
 
Yes, trim all the old remaining panel off, then test fit it several times. If 
you need to, use sheet metal screws to help align it, until you're happy with 
it. Are you using a dedicated spot welder? Or are you spot welding it with a 
mig welder? If the later, then drill some 5/16ths holes where you want to spot 
weld (along the sides), and plug weld the holes closed, making sure you join 
both pieces. Under the rear part will be very tricky, but you might try using 
some panel adheasive that they use on modern cars. John J. might be able to 
recommend a good brand, or you could talk to the body shop supplier, explaining 
what you're doing. Along the upper part, you'll want to try and use the 
existing seam joints, this way it'll be hidden by the trunk seal. This is where my 
Roadster 2 was clipped before I got it. I never looked at the bottom to see how 
they did it, but I do know it was brazed on, giving you an idea of how long 
ago it had been done. It's a shame they didn't fix the deck floor ripples. :( I 
hope this helps.

Bob 65 Notch S w/ Sunroof
       71 Square, now a 2 seat Roadster, pics can be seen at; 
http://volksrods.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2977 

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