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Re: type3-d Digest V2005 #411

<x-flowed>Not sure if it's relevent in this case, but don't forget that flywheel shims are different for 6v and 12v flywheels. The 12v ones are slightly smaller diameter and won't fit an early crank without grinding out which is not a very good idea due to the risk of burring changing the thickness. (I have stoned the burring off in the past but I wouldn't recommend this! 6v shims are quite hard to find now, so never throw these away if they aren't all needed this time round. Before fitting a secondhand flywheel, check the hub where the oil seal rubs for wear. Some wear can be turned out but if it's too bad, it'll leak oil whatever seal you fit. And when fitting the seals, make sure they are right in the recess against the shoulder, nnot flush as some books will tell you, and OIL the hub and seal copiously so initial startup doesn't burn the seal. Silicon seals are the worst for burning.

type3-d-request@vwtype3.org wrote: 

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type3-d Digest				Volume 2005 : Issue 411

Today's Topics:
  Re: [T3] Painting Front Beam          [ BOB2TYPE3S@aol.com ]
  Re: [T3] Hints/Instructins for insta  [ BOB2TYPE3S@aol.com ]
  Re: [T3] Painting Front Beam          [ Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
  Re: [T3] Ok,I give what is it?        [ Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
  Re: [T3] FI fuel pump relay           [ Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
  RE: [T3] Painting Front Beam          [ "Carrie" <apop@eradain.com> ]
  Re: Governor o-ring (was:Re: [T3] Pa  [ Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
  [T3] Side vent scoops?                [ Timothy Kender <timothy_kender@cox. ]
  Re: [T3] Side vent scoops?            [ Toby Erkson <air_cooled_nut@pobox.c ]
  POR-15 (was Re: [T3] Painting Front   [ Hal Sullivan <tristessa@frys.com> ]
  [T3] Looking at a 65 Notch tomorrow   [ "ken weidmann" <glxtasy@hotmail.com ]


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Subject:
Re: [T3] Painting Front Beam
From:
BOB2TYPE3S@aol.com
Date:
Tue, 31 May 2005 22:09:21 EDT
To:
type3@vwtype3.org


No need to pull the trailing arms. Just paint what you can see after cleaning the heck out of it. You might what to use some Gunk degreaser or similar product to help remove the grease and oil that's probably on it first, then some soapy water (dish soap and warm water, heavy on the soap). Just so you know, POR 15 sticks better to a rough surface, which means you probably should "scuff" (with one of those colored chore girl pot cleaning pads (sorry no offense intented, but I normally get them from my paint supplier)) the smooth painted areas before painting. There should also be 4 grease zerks, 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom (one will be on one side and the other on the other side of the seam joint). I hope this helps.

Bob 65 Notch S w/ Sunroof
71 Square, now a 2 seat Roadster, pics can be seen at; http://volksrods.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2977 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org
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Subject:
Re: [T3] Hints/Instructins for installing rear cargo carpet kit
From:
BOB2TYPE3S@aol.com
Date:
Tue, 31 May 2005 22:14:03 EDT
To:
type3@vwtype3.org


In a message dated 5/31/05 10:25:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, RSCHLEGEL@OCSD.COM writes:

<< Same with me except I bought the front carpet kit. Geeeeze! There's a
 lot of pieces. I wonder why they don't send instructions?  >>

I think they figure you're going to spread all the pieces out first, the figure out which ones match you existing stuff. That's the way I've always done it. I just wish they'd supply the glue for the carpet, as some of the stuff I've seen used left a lot to be desired. :O

Bob 65 Notch S w/ Sunroof
71 Square, now a 2 seat Roadster, pics can be seen at; http://volksrods.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2977 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


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Subject:
Re: [T3] Painting Front Beam
From:
Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
Date:
Tue, 31 May 2005 22:21:43 -0500
To:
type3@vwtype3.org


On 31 May 2005 at 11:52, Carrie wrote:


Also, I have two grease nipples/fittings on the top side of the beam, and a
nice threaded hole in one spot on the lower.  Am I missing a grease fitting?


There are 4 grease fittings: 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. Of the 2 bottom ones, there is one on each end but one is in front of the seam and one is behind. The Zerk fittings just screw in, so you can replace missing ones with those from any other beam.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject:
Re: [T3] Ok,I give what is it?
From:
Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
Date:
Tue, 31 May 2005 22:21:43 -0500
To:
type3@vwtype3.org


On 31 May 2005 at 1:41, David V.N. wrote:


It will work fine as a manual. You'll need a flywheel and an MT gland nut.


And you will probably need some flywheel shims to get the end play right after replacing the flywheel.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject:
Re: [T3] FI fuel pump relay
From:
Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
Date:
Tue, 31 May 2005 22:21:43 -0500
To:
type3@vwtype3.org


On 31 May 2005 at 21:43, Matthew Jones wrote:


My FI fuel pump relay failed a few weeks ago. It started clicking a bit while I
was driving, then whirred for a few seconds, then went off. After a few
attempts to restart the car I gave up. I was near home so I got a lift home for
a few tools - the few I didn't actually have in the car at the time, of course.
Thanks to a great deal of lurking on this list I immediately knew what the
problem was, and that all I had to do was bypass the relay and hey presto,
trouble free drive home. So thanks everyone for helping before I even had to
ask.

I took the relay out and tested it with a spare battery, and it seems fine. I
can get it to whirr by gently touching the battery leads to it, but that is to
be expected.


The relay should just click, not whirr. If it is actually buzzing on you then there's something intermittent in it. OTOH, if you're hearing the fuel pump whirr when you power the relay then that's okay.


If it's not the relay itself, what is the next most likely cause of it whirring
- my guess is the FI power relay ?


No. If there was a problem with the FI main power relay, then jumpering the fuel pump relay would still leave you with a partially lame FI system. You should check the wiring that controls the pump relay, especially a splice connector in the engine compartment. It will be right up at the front of the compartment, just to left of center. If that connector has been taken apart and then not put back together well, then this could be intermittent.


If I need to replace it I assume a standard 12V SPST relay will be fine? The
fact that the original has a special 311 part no and is a funny shape is not
relevant? The tag numbers are the same as almost any other relay.


While any decent 12 V relay would work there, it's probably worthwhile getting the exact right part, simply because the 2 wires which control the relay (85 & 86) are in a white plastic holder that insures that they can only be connected one way. If you used a generic relay and happened to connect it incorrectly at some point, there's a chance that you could destroy the FI brain.

A good used one should not be hard to find.


While I was poking around under the dash, I noticed that of the wires from the
FI to the relay, the 2 which switch it are there (grey to 85 and blue/yellow to
86), but the red one has been cut. According to my Bentley this should be
current track 5, going to the ECU. Is this going to be a problem? The car seems
to be running fine.



There should be 3 red wires:

1) from the fuse box

2) to the fuel pump

3) to the aux air reg on AT cars. This wire may be cut off on MT cars.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject:
RE: [T3] Painting Front Beam
From:
"Carrie" <apop@eradain.com>
Date:
Tue, 31 May 2005 19:27:34 -0700
To:
<type3@vwtype3.org>


Thanks guys!  I'm cleaning with parts dip and scuffing with a wire brush.
Now to hunt down the fittings....

Carrie
63 Notch, sunroof
72 Porsche 914



-----Original Message-----
From: BOB2TYPE3S@aol.com [mailto:BOB2TYPE3S@aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 7:09 PM
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Painting Front Beam

No need to pull the trailing arms. Just paint what you can see after
cleaning the heck out of it. You might what to use some Gunk degreaser or
similar product to help remove the grease and oil that's probably on it
first, then some soapy water (dish soap and warm water, heavy on the soap).
Just so you know, POR 15 sticks better to a rough surface, which means you
probably should "scuff" (with one of those colored chore girl pot cleaning pads (sorry no offense
intented, but I normally get them from my paint supplier)) the smooth
painted areas before painting. There should also be 4 grease zerks, 2 at the
top and 2 at the bottom (one will be on one side and the other on the other
side of the seam joint). I hope this helps.

Bob 65 Notch S w/ Sunroof
71 Square, now a 2 seat Roadster, pics can be seen at;
http://volksrods.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2977 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


------------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject:
Re: Governor o-ring (was:Re: [T3] Passed test - good and bad news)
From:
Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
Date:
Tue, 31 May 2005 23:01:31 -0500
To:
type3@vwtype3.org


On 31 May 2005 at 20:24, Russ Wolfe wrote:


On Tue, 2005-05-31 at 08:38, Jim Adney wrote:

On 30 May 2005 at 23:33, Russ Wolfe wrote:


On Mon, 2005-05-30 at 22:32, Jim Adney wrote: 

On 30 May 2005 at 22:20, Russ Wolfe wrote:


92 (94) on the 5 bolt Bus, 108 on the T-3 according to my 1972 Without
Guesswork.

http://classicvw.org/gallery/just_stuff/torq_spec?full=1

That's odd. I don't have a '72, but my '70 & '74 WGs, and the Bentley all agree on 87-94 ft-lbs for all the 4 bolt wheels on types 1, 3, & 4.

Sure enough, that's completely different from the other sources I have. Let's both check some other sources and see what we come up with. 

Well, You have me there. Both of my Brown Bentley's show 87-94 ft lbs.
My "Big" Bentley only shows 72 ft lbs for the 5 bolt wheels. My '72
owners manual shows 87-94. I can't find my '60-'70 WG right now. It may
be out in the shop. My '70-81 Chilton's doesn't even show it.
I have always just grabbed the '72 WG, because it is always in the
drawer here in the desk.



Haynes also gives 87-94.



------------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject:
[T3] Side vent scoops?
From:
Timothy Kender <timothy_kender@cox.net>
Date:
Tue, 31 May 2005 21:05:32 -0700
To:
type3@vwtype3.org


Hi Volks.
I recently joined here & so am not up on the controversies... So, what do you think about the air scoops for the external rear areas for aded ventillation? I live in Phoenix.
Timothy

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject:
Re: [T3] Side vent scoops?
From:
Toby Erkson <air_cooled_nut@pobox.com>
Date:
Tue, 31 May 2005 22:45:42 -0700
To:
Type 3 Mailing List <type3@vwtype3.org>


Heheheh...I'll let Jim blow the fog away from this marketing misinformation... :-D For now let's just say you should throw them away! Paying attention to your engine's cooling system is more important and geographical location doesn't mean a thang.

 Toby Erkson  --  http://www.icbm.org/
 '72 VW Squareback Darksider, 5-speed, 2.0L, rag top
 '72 VW Squareback Lightsider, automatic, FI, sunroof, gas heater
 '95 VW Jetta ~ SCCA Solo 2 EP #3; '73 Porsche 914; '81 Honda Gold Wing
 Portland, Oregon


Timothy Kender wrote:

I recently joined here & so am not up on the controversies... So, what do you think about the air scoops for the external rear areas for aded ventillation? 


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject:
POR-15 (was Re: [T3] Painting Front Beam)
From:
Hal Sullivan <tristessa@frys.com>
Date:
Tue, 31 May 2005 22:56:06 -0700
To:
type3@vwtype3.org


This isn't really related to the front beam painting discussion, but since I saw POR being discussed and
was going to bring this up anyway I figured I'd chime in with an update on my unintentional long-term
POR-15 "testing". Back, oh .. 13 years ago .. I painted the entire frame from a '26 Chevrolet with POR-15. It was going to be used in the construction of a "depot hack" wagon built from leftover bits of Chevy stuff at my parents house. I'd wirewheeled the frame down before brushing it on. Then life happened, and it's been sitting unprotected in the "way-back 40" of their 1/2 acre lot since then.

I just got back from a road trip to California to visit, and while I was there I took a few minutes to wander out and look at the frame, still sitting right where I'd left it. The POR is peeling off in a few places, and rust is starting to come through on the tops of the framerails. I'm somewhat surprised by the results. 13 years, exposed to everything that the Santa Rosa climate can throw at it, "improper" preperation of the frame (I didn't use their metal prep or anything, just wirewheel, dust off & paint) and it's still mostly holding up. 

I'll have to check back on it in another 13 years. :-)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


------------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject:
[T3] Looking at a 65 Notch tomorrow
From:
"ken weidmann" <glxtasy@hotmail.com>
Date:
Tue, 31 May 2005 23:17:02 -0700
To:
type3-d@vwtype3.org


Is there anything particular to look at?

I had a 68 bug for several years, a 66 ghia, and have had an 85 scirocco for the last 17 years and a 95 glx for the last 10 years, so I have a good amount of VW experience, but no type 3 experience.

The car is a 65 notch with a rag top. Yellow with grey interior and porsche alloys. The guy says he bought it from someone in Oregon (or washington) about a year and a half ago. It has some slight body damage on the left side and is running nerf bars in front with filled in turn signals.

Are there any problem areas to look for on Notch's? for rust or other issues? bugs tend to rust out under the battery and sometimes in the trunk but I don't know about the notch.

I subscribe to the digest, so if anyone has any help for me, please reply directly as I won't receive the digest until after I go to look at the car.

Ken

</x-flowed>
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