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This advice is helpful... I was wondering if the 6V shims were different, and No, I dont have any extra. My alternative option is to grab the flywheel off the old notch engine, its the original engine for the Notch so Ive been keeping it togeather but I suppose changing out its flywheel isnt too invasive, especially if I will probably never use it again. Ill have to check its condition Speaking of its condition... the Crates flywheel is up on http://classicvw.org/gallery/KeithP/flywheel_teeth How bad does this really look? keep in mind that the clutch face has had rivits against it also and is "less that ideal" Thanks, Keith > My advice is to stick with the one you have rather than risk > buying unseen (like I did). Gene Berg advertises new ring gears > and Rimco can do the machining and that way you get a perfect > ring and a refaced clutch surface and if necessary a de-ridged > hub for the mail seal. They will balance it too. You could even > get it slightly lightened for better pickup while they are doing it. > > Three other pieces of hard won advice (which you probably already > know anyway), > 1. The end float shims are larger ID to fit on the 6v style > cranks and the 'more easily available' 12v shims won't fit, so > make sure you get 6v shims. Secondhand ones are fine as long as > you make up the right total thickness using an end float gauge . > 2. Don't use the tin washer for sealing the end of the crank, all > it does is add end float but isn't a good seal. Use the paper > one in the gasket set instead, these add less end float and seal > perfectly. (Without the later 'o' ring design you depend on > this seal to stop oil working it's way through to the clutch face). ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~