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unsubsribe me please. --- type3-d-request@vwtype3.org wrote: > > type3-d Digest Volume 2005 : Issue 484 > > Today's Topics: > Re: [T3] Jacking Car [ Timothy > Kender <timothy_kender@cox. ] > Re: [T3] Jacking Car [ Steven > Ayres <comwest@att.net> ] > Re: [T3] Jacking Car [ Toby > Erkson <air_cooled_nut@pobox.c ] > Re: [T3] Squares Next motor [ "Keith > Park" <topnotch@nycap.rr.com ] > Re: [T3] Squares Next motor [ "Keith > Park" <topnotch@nycap.rr.com ] > Re: [T3] Gettin started on the Crate [ "Keith > Park" <topnotch@nycap.rr.com ] > Re: [T3] Gettin started on the Crate [ Russ Wolfe > <russw@classicvw.org> ] > Re: [T3] I'm baack...with my Notch [ Jim Adney > <jadney@vwtype3.org> ] > Re: [T3] Jacking Car [ Jim Adney > <jadney@vwtype3.org> ] > Re: [T3] Hubcap Removal [ Jim Adney > <jadney@vwtype3.org> ] > RE: [T3] paint ding at the shop and [ Jim Adney > <jadney@vwtype3.org> ] > Re: [T3] Gettin started on the Crate [ Jim Adney > <jadney@vwtype3.org> ] > Re: [T3] Jacking Car [ Jim Adney > <jadney@vwtype3.org> ] > > Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2005 14:05:54 -0700 > From: Timothy Kender <timothy_kender@cox.net> > To: type3@vwtype3.org > Subject: Re: [T3] Jacking Car > > Better question: how does one jack the front end up? > There are no holes > up front! > > On Sat, 2 Jul 2005 10:15 am, Ben Mungkornpanich > wrote: > > Were is a good spot to jack the back of the car > up? I want to get both > > rear wheels up and do their brakes together. > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | > mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Timothy in Phoenix, > 1973 Fasty "Sport" > 1977 Highroof "Little Buddha" > > Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2005 14:32:45 -0700 > From: Steven Ayres <comwest@att.net> > To: T3 List <type3@vwtype3.org> > Subject: Re: [T3] Jacking Car > > TimothyK=> how does one jack the front end up? > > Place the floor jack under the center of the front > beam. Depending on > which job you're doing, place jackstands at the ends > of the beam (best) > or under the wheel-well corners of the the pan, > where you'll find a > couple of bolt heads indicating the hardened area. > > Steven Ayres, Prescott AZ > '66 Big Ghia > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | > mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2005 15:06:03 -0700 > From: Toby Erkson <air_cooled_nut@pobox.com> > To: T3 List <type3@vwtype3.org> > Subject: Re: [T3] Jacking Car > > For any car, where the suspension meets the body is > a good location for > jacking. Personally, I don't like jacking the pan > and will use the > stock jack location for lifting the sides of the > car. > > Toby Erkson -- http://www.icbm.org/ > '72 VW Squareback Darksider, 5-speed, 2.0L, rag > top > > Pending: '72 VW Squareback Lightsider, automatic, > FI, sunroof, gas heater > > '95 VW Jetta ~ SCCA Solo 2 EP #3; '73 Porsche 914; > '81 Honda Gold Wing > Portland, Oregon > > > > Steven Ayres wrote: > > > ...Depending on which job you're doing, place > jackstands at the ends > > of the beam (best) or under the wheel-well corners > of the the pan, > > where you'll find a couple of bolt heads > indicating the hardened area. > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | > mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2005 21:22:23 -0400 > From: "Keith Park" <topnotch@nycap.rr.com> > To: <type3@vwtype3.org> > Subject: Re: [T3] Squares Next motor > > I agree, but I cant begin to afford Raby, although I > may buy my parts from > him. I need to look Shad's site over again. I > really want to keep the 2L > stock anyway for reliability and affordability. > > KEith > > > > > There's an old saying that was taught to me when I > first decided to get > back > > into VW's. Do it right and only cry once. You went > with Berg before, now > go > > with Jake Raby > <http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/Home_Page.htm> > for a > > complete build, or with LN Engineering (somtimes > listee Shad Laws) for > parts > > <http://lnengineering.com/> > > > > Neil > > > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | > mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2005 21:25:41 -0400 > From: "Keith Park" <topnotch@nycap.rr.com> > To: <type3@vwtype3.org> > Subject: Re: [T3] Squares Next motor > > I see... maybe by next summer he will have found a > solution. I guess the > stock of OEM ones has been depleated. > > Keith > > > IIRC, the source of the problem in the T4 world is > the lifters, and it's > been going > > on since Johnson went under a few years back -- > they were the ones who > > actually *made* most of the lifters on the market > regardless of whose name > was > > on the box. > > > > I know Raby's been throwing a bunch of R&D time & > money at the lifter > issue, > > built a testing fixture, has been experimenting > with coatings, different > lifter > > blanks .. didn't know he'd found an actual > solution to the problem. > Things've > > been awful quiet from him lately, but he's got a > lawsuit going on (relax, > he's > > on the "giving" end of the suit!) which has a lot > to do with it. > > > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | > mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > > > > > Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2005 21:43:46 -0400 > From: "Keith Park" <topnotch@nycap.rr.com> > To: <type3@vwtype3.org> > Subject: Re: [T3] Gettin started on the Crate! > > Hi Russ, > > Its a steel gasketed one. I pulled the Clutch and > it was shot... which goes > along with it being a delivery vehicle but the > flywheel is also bit > compromised from the rivits so between that and the > bad teeth I think I need > to put another flywheel on it. > You dont have a gasketed 6V flywheel do you? > > > Keith > > > > > I may need a 6V '65 flywheel! > > > > > Is it an o'ring flywheel, or steel gasket?? > > The starter can spin when not completely into the > flywheel. I have seen > > a lot of stop and start drivers with the flywheel > chewed. The bendix has > > is spring loaded, and can spin when not completely > engaged. Check the > > shaft on the starter to see if the Bendix is going > all the way to the > > stop. Or, is the stop not snapped onto its snap > ring. > > > > > > -- > > Russ Wolfe > > '71 FB AT > > '66 FB MT > > '64 T34 (not running) > > '65 T1 (not running) > > '05 KIA Sorento SUV > > russw@classicvw.org > > http://www.classicvw.org > > > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | > mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > > > > > Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2005 21:37:44 -0500 > From: Russ Wolfe <russw@classicvw.org> > To: Type3 <type3@vwtype3.org> > Subject: Re: [T3] Gettin started on the Crate! > > On Sat, 2005-07-02 at 20:43, Keith Park wrote: > > Hi Russ, > > > > Its a steel gasketed one. I pulled the Clutch and > it was shot... which goes > > along with it being a delivery vehicle but the > flywheel is also bit > > compromised from the rivits so between that and > the bad teeth I think I need > > to put another flywheel on it. > > You dont have a gasketed 6V flywheel do you? > > I will have to look tomorrow. The light is not too > good in the shop > attic. > It should be the same as a '63 thru '65 T-2 also. If > I have one, that is > what it will be off of. > > -- > Russ Wolfe > '71 FB AT > '66 FB MT > '64 T34 (not running) > '65 T1 (not running) > '05 KIA Sorento SUV > russw@classicvw.org > http://www.classicvw.org > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | > mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2005 21:02:12 -0500 > From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> > To: type3@vwtype3.org > Subject: Re: [T3] I'm baack...with my Notch > > On 2 Jul 2005 at 10:12, David Walters wrote: > > > As for the generator problem that I was having, I > troubleshot as per > > the Haynes manual and showed that the generator > wasn't putting out any > > volatge, using the no-load unregulated volatge > check from Haynes. Then > > I tried a fault finding method off of the internet > and it told me the > > same thing *but* it suggested re-polarizing the > generator. I did what > > it said to do (and wasn't too confident while > doing it either) and > > darned, if it didn't work. > > I have a charging system FAQ that I'll be glad to > send out to anyone who needs > it. I don't recommend repolarizing just because the > chances of destroying > something are much greater than the chances of > fixing something. However, it is > true that sometimes it's necessary. > > The only times that I've ever seen polarizing to be > necessary was when the > battery had been installed backwards, or when the > generator had been completely > torn down and not repolarized by the rebuilder. > Personally, I don't think the > latter should ever happen, just because it would > mean that the rebuilder never > tested the generator after doing his work. > > Time alone is never a reason to repolarize. These > things can sit on the shelf > for decades with no problems. > > -- > ******************************* > Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org > Madison, Wisconsin, USA > ******************************* > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | > mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2005 21:02:13 -0500 > From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> > To: type3@vwtype3.org > Subject: Re: [T3] Jacking Car > > On 2 Jul 2005 at 11:48, Ben Mungkornpanich wrote: > > > Were is a good spot to jack the back of the car > up? I want to get both rear > > wheels up and do their brakes together. > > Don't jack under anything that just looks like part > of the body. You're looking > for suspension members which are made of sturdier > stuff. Anywhere on the rear > subframe is good. > > Likewise, anywhere under the front axle beam is > good. > > Sorry, Steve, but I'm gonna warn people not to use > your suggestions. Jacking > under the tranny will work MOST of the time, but I'm > afraid that sometime > someone will suffer that one in 1000 chance and > destroy something expensive. > Jacking under the the engine or the tranny risks > damage not only to the engine > or the transmission, but also to the engine and > transmission mounts. > > I jack under the ends of the subframe where the > torsion bars are, or go to the > center of the subframe with a short board so I can > jack the whole rear end at > the same time. > > As far as the front goes, I'd just stick with either > the front axle beam or the > front frame horns that grab the axle. Those outboard > bolts that Steve mentioned > really aren't in any particularly stout metal. > > The OE jack points are fine when the car is new and > the body is perfect, AND if > the ground is good so there's no chance of the car > rolling forward or back. > Otherwise, they are just in sheet metal, and are > easily damaged. I would use > them only as a last resort. > > -- > ******************************* > Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org > Madison, Wisconsin, USA > ******************************* > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | > mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2005 21:02:12 -0500 > From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> > To: type3@vwtype3.org > Subject: Re: [T3] Hubcap Removal > > On 2 Jul 2005 at 12:20, Ben Mungkornpanich wrote: > > > Ok, Stupid question time. I'm trying to do my > brakes but I don't know how > > to remove the hubcaps. I cant find that little U > shapped piece of metal > > that old manual shows. Is there a way to do it > without that peice? > > I think a lot of places sell reproductions of that > little U-shaped part. It's > worth having one in your tool kit. > > -- > ******************************* > Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org > Madison, Wisconsin, USA > ******************************* > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | > mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2005 21:02:12 -0500 > From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> > To: type3@vwtype3.org > Subject: RE: [T3] paint ding at the shop and brakes > > On 1 Jul 2005 at 21:30, Daniel Hoopes wrote: > > > anyway, they're brazilian so I'd like to get some > german ones if anyone > > knows where I can get some. any good old ones > still out there worth working > > with or should I just go new? shop said they > couldn't find anywhere > > stocking the drums but that they would be $80 each > if they did. > > Yes, I have good used OG type 3 drums. > > -- > ******************************* > Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org > Madison, Wisconsin, USA > ******************************* > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | > mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2005 21:02:13 -0500 > From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> > To: type3@vwtype3.org > Subject: Re: [T3] Gettin started on the Crate! > > On 2 Jul 2005 at 21:43, Keith Park wrote: > > > Its a steel gasketed one. I pulled the Clutch and > it was shot... > > which goes along with it being a delivery vehicle > but the flywheel is > > also bit compromised from the rivits so between > that and the bad teeth > > I think I need to put another flywheel on it. > > It's probably an easy part to find replacements for. > > Some undercutting in the flywheel really won't cause > any big problems, so if > the teeth are acceptable, it may be fine if you just > get it smoothed out so > that there are no high spots. > > -- > ******************************* > Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org > Madison, Wisconsin, USA > ******************************* > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | > mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2005 21:02:12 -0500 > From: Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> > To: type3@vwtype3.org > Subject: Re: [T3] Jacking Car > > On 2 Jul 2005 at 14:05, Timothy Kender wrote: > > > Better question: how does one jack the front end > up? There are no holes > > up front! > > The factory jack points will jack up one side of the > car, allowing access to > either wheel on that side. I recommend that you use > a different jack, however, > and jack under a stronger place as mentioned > elsewhere. > > -- > ******************************* > Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org > Madison, Wisconsin, USA > ******************************* > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | > mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > ____________________________________________________ Yahoo! Sports Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com