Re: [T3] Front beam age & wear ?

["Keith Park" <topnotch@nycap.rr.com>]

Actually, this can be welded up... but make sure the water and salt that got
in there hasnt caused alot of other problems... it doesnt take long.
The only plastic you have to worry about (on the LATER beams only) are the
thrust rings on the upper arms and rubber seals on the lower ones.  Pop them
out, and the bearings come right out with a puller and slide hammer, this
will keep them from getting contaminated then you can weld.  BUT.... the
beam is full of grease and can catch fire easily, so have alot of water
around and a fire extinguisher.

Keith


> >
> > > However, the beam itself is holed, so will require some work:
> > > http://vw1600e.org.uk/broken/beam.jpg
> >
> > That's a big problem. It's difficult to fix that without
> > damaging plastic parts which are in the bearing areas and
> > which are irreplaceable. You would need to be welding right
> > next to those plastic parts. You might be better off looking
> > for a better beam. If you find one, be sure to salvage all
> > the internals from the old one.
>
> I would weld very slowly with lots of wet rags & tea breaks to let things
cool
> down. I would also pack the bearing area with wet cloth to prevent weld
> splatter & cutting dust/rust flakes getting into the rollers etc.
>
> I was thinking I could cut a square out of the middle of the bottom beam
to get
> all the rust & crud out, then neatly butt weld this back in so that it was
> structurally and visually as before. Bit of underseal and nobody would
know.
>
> Is it easy to pull the bushes & needles out ? Bently shows special tools.
I am
> fairly sure I would break things if I try this with home made tools. I
don't
> get on very well with old plastic things.
>
> Dave Hall also told me UK annual inspection rules state we aren't
> allowed to weld front axles. But most of these areas are covered by the
clamp
> rubber when installed :-).
>
>
> --
> Matt. UK.
> '73 1600e FB.
>
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