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Re: [T3] Sound deadening (was MPG)


Dynamat and its clones (FatMat, for one), are sticky adhesive panels backed by
metal foil.  They don't absorb water, and once they're stuck down, they form a
waterproof seal, so there shouldn't be any water corrosion problems from leaks
into the cabin.  I'd very much avoid any fiber or hair mats, as were commonly
used in the period these cars were made, as they DO absorb and hold water.  My
912 came to me with a leaky passenger side door seal, and over many years,
water had gotten soaked into the asphalt and horsehair mat sound deadening on
the floors, which made a nice big rust hole in the passenger side floor.  I
removed all of that crud, fixed the floor with a replacement panel, and covered
that inside with FatMat, and outside with paint and rubberized undercoating. 
Water poured on the mat just sits there, and doesn't get soaked up by the mat,
or leak through to the floor.  

--- Constantino Tobio <ctobio@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hal Sullivan wrote:
> 
> >At 09:47 AM 8/4/05, Constantino Tobio wrote:
> >  
> >
> >>I've considered going this route myself. In fact, here's a very
> >>interesting site where a guy covers the sound and insulation
> >>improvements he did to his Bus:
> >>http://www.type2.com/library/heat/heat-soundproof.html
> >>    
> >>
> >
> >Be careful with using some of those ideas -- there are reports 
> >floating around on the T2 list that the Bus in question became 
> >a junker hulk a few years later.  Apparently it rusted from the
> >inside out in the rocker areas, wheelwells, lower end of the 
> >nose, floors, etc.
> >
> >The debate is still ongoing.
> >  
> >
> Well yeah, there were a number of things I saw that I called into
> question- namely the interior sound deadening materials and the liberal
> use of fibered roofing tar. It's one thing to seal up a car- its a whole
> other thing to not allow it to breathe, which I fear is what may have
> happened here if that bus really did rust out. Fibered roofing material
> doesn't seem like a bad idea as an undercoating, per se, but I would be
> careful where it was applied to.
> 
> I think a more reasonable course of action would be to lay some 
> (flexible, removable) panels of soundproofing on the floor and behind
> the rear seatback on the Fastback. It doesn't even need to go
> wall-to-wall, necessarily. In fact, I probably wouldn't go much larger
> than the original panel sizes, and with modern materials, it wouldn't
> need to be thicker. I would add a panel behind the rear seatback on the
> Fasty, as the masonite-covered-with-sisal seems to have completely lost
> its effectiveness by now.
> 
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org
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> 
> 



		
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