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I've had success by spraying the mechanical parts with WD40 - I believe its role is to thin the original lubricant that has become sticky. Don't flush (eg soak in WD40) unless you are convinced the face etc will be unaffected. This is about the only 'repair' possible. I believe in some cases the very fine wires of the coils get corroded by flux used to solder them to the small circuit board. Unless you have micro-soldering skills, I think it's unlikely you'll make a successful repair to that. In another case the pendulum had rubbed the surface of the coils and worn through. It is possible with ingenuity and removal of the back-plate to adapt the clock to use a cheap quartz movement. I've done it as a functioning mock-up, while another club member adapted his clock in a similar way and has it running in his Type 3. If the original fault is terminal, I see no objection to such butchery! The transistor is biassed to conduct, and one set of coils attracts the pendulum. This movement induces a back emf in the other coil, which changes the bias on the transistor base to stop it conducting, so the pendulum returns and the cycle repeats. We're talking about the later clock with transistorised movement (generally black-faced, but rarely grey). Dave. UK VW Type 3 & 4 Club http://www.hallvw.clara.co.uk/ ------ ----- Original Message ----- From: <K5Dar@aol.com> To: <type3@vwtype3.org> Sent: Monday, September 20, 2004 4:16 AM Subject: Re: [T3] Brake Pads > I've got two clocks that are dead. This is the first that I've heard about > the flushing trick. I'll give it a try on one of them & report my findings. > > Daryl - 72SB ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~