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> > Also on eBay is this: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ViewItem&category=33749&item=7927947596 > > These bolts have conical collars, not spherical. They are not correct for our > wheels. I think I will have to take my wheel off and have a look at it, since it is not a stock rim perhaps it would prefer the conical rather than spherical seat.. I think my fingers will be able to perceive a flat or concave surface there. > I'm not sure how long they can be, but you are certainly correct in worrying > about their getting too long. Presuming these pass the seat test, would installing them and then spinning the wheel in the air be a reliable clearance test, or does the internal geometery shift when these are under load? I guess I could just remove the entire drum assembly and have a look for overhang with wheel installed, is there published data of internal clearances of these parts? I like my brakes functional. > There IS a reason NOT to switch to studs! One of the best ways to break frozen > rear drums loose from the hubs depends on there not being studs in place there. > On early cars where the drum and hub are one piece this doesn't apply. That's reason enough for me, as I have had the e-brake freeze overnight, and it took running into the car [a few times] with my 60's Chevrolet to free it. This was of course, before I learned of the BFH method. Plus I like the concept of trying to keep the systems as close to original design as possible. Thanks again, Curtis ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~