RE: [T3] Belches and Smokes! (long)

["Jeff" <knowonelse@sbcglobal.net>]

I ran a wire from the hot lead of the battery
into the engine bay using a long lead with
alligator type clips at both ends. The end in
the engine bay has a protective cover to prevent
it from accidentally touching ground and generating
sparks.

All that is needed for the engine to run is power
to the black wire on the coil. Normal wiring has
a hot wire coming from the battery to the ignition
switch, and when the key is turned to the ON
position, it provides power to the coil connection,
which powers the lead to the solenoid cutoffs,
choke, and to the rest of the engine.

The remote starter connects to the ground lead
on the starter and the hot lead leading to a
remote push-on type switch. You can find these
in you FLAPS. The leads need to have alligator
clips on it as well. Add tape or shrink wrap
to protect exposed metal from accidental
grounding.

If you get a whirr sound and not the proper
starter action, you hooked it up wrong. BTDT!

Leaving the hot lead to the coil disconnected
allows you to turn the motor, but no danger of
it starting. Connect the coil hot lead, and the
engine can be started from the engine bay. TO
shut the engine off, pull the wire.

This separates the dash wiring from the engine
wiring. I don't trust my dash wiring just yet,
and wanted to get the engine running.

As always, when messing with such things, double
check to be sure that no hot wire touches ground
or you get sparks, and open sparks in a engine
bay can be dangerous. I had two fire extinguishers
on hand.

Jeff  '67 Sqbk

-----Original Message-----

"I ran a wire from the battery hot lead into the
engine bay to clamp onto the coil hot lead to
bypass the ignition switch. I wanted to be in the
engine are when I fired it up. I ran a remote
starter as well."

Could someone elaborate on the "bypass the ignition switch" and "remote starter"
ideas.

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