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On Sat, 2004-02-28 at 15:46, Dave Hall wrote: > That's the general idea. > There is a specified gap for the choke disc at 'cold' to adjust the length of > the connecting rod to the throttle mechanism for a bit of throttle when cold. > The index marks on the heating element cover give a reference point for > adjustment, but it is entirely appropriate to adjust the position of the cover > to allow the choke to stay on for longer, or go off sooner if it isn't working > ideally. As resistances develop in the connections, and the heater wire thins > with corrosion, the rate of rotation of the bimetal spring will vary anyway. > > Colder outside temp should simply keep the choke on longer, and I've never > bothered to adjust the choke cover summer to winter. This might be different if > you get in traffic queues early in a journey, but on the open road it's no > problem. > Most problems with the choke particularly T-3's is the choke pull off. This is the little piston that is connected to the choke linkage and pulls the choke part way off after the engine starts. Many of the early dual carb chokes had a metal slug to close off the end of the piston area after the the thing is assembled. Many of these plugs come loose, or fall out al together. (If you are missing one, a US dime is about the right size) Also, the vacuum passage to this piston was prone to plugging. After the engine starts, the choke butterfly should come open about half way. As the engine rpm/vacuum falls, the choke will start to close again, until the heating element warms the spring to the proper point. -- Russ Wolfe <russw@classicvw.org> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org