Re: FI Problems

["Richard Steinburg" <wagen@mts.net>]

Hey, thanks a lot for the help with the FI problems. We took the T3 to my
friend's cottage, but before we did, i double checked the two power wires
that go to the computer and it started right away. At my friend's cottage we
got to take th car around a bit until the engine got warm. This wasn't the
first time, when we got the engine going before, it wouldn't run after the
engine got warm. What do you think could be the problem?
I am suspecting that the ignition wires are bad. I had similar symptoms with
a '61 beetle before, and as soon as I changed the old spark plug wires to
new ones, the problem was gone. What else could make the car not run when it
gets warm? We didn't have my multimeter at the cottage, so we couln't see if
the temperature sendors were bad or not. All we could do is either unplug
one of the temperature sensors at a time or ground the sensor wires one at a
time to see if there was any difference.
Hmm, please let me know if you have any insights.
-Rich
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
To: "Richard Steinburg" <wagen@mts.net>
Sent: Friday, August 29, 2003 8:32 AM
Subject: Re: FI Problems


> On 29 Aug 2003 at 7:14, Richard Steinburg wrote:
>
> > I've been doing a lot of work on a 71 T3 square. This car has been
> > left in the bushes probably for 15 years or so, so a whole pile of
> > problems could exist here. I had to get a new used brain (thanks to
> > Jim Adney), and with that I got the engine to come back to life. The
> > problem at the time seemed that the engine would only start when it
> > was cold, when it was warmed up later on, the engine wouldn't even
> > cough.
>
> Glad you got your package. I hope they made at least SOME difference for
you.
>
> > After some investigation I found that the injectors weren't firing. i
> > got them cleaned up, and working properly when I hook them up directly
> > to a battery. I also checked the wiring from the computer terminal to
> > the injectors, and the injector grounds, and they are all good. i even
> > cleaned up the terminal connections for the brain and the injectors,
> > and made them a little tighter. Still, when I hooked up a test light
> > to the positive wire of any injector, i wouldn't get any juice when
> > the engine turned over.
>
> Turn the key ON. You should hear a relay click and then another relay
click
> about 1 second later. Do you hear both of these clicks?
>
> Turn the key ON and go to the engine compartment and push the throttle
open. On
> 70-3 you should hear a series of clicks as 2 of the injectors fire. Turn
the
> engine over 360 deg and do it again. You should hear the other 2 injectors
> fire. You can actually feel which ones are firing if you hold your hand on
them
> while you depress the throttle. 1&4 should fire together and 2&3 should
fire
> together.
>
> If you only hear 2 of them, pull the FI harness plug out of the dist and
put an
> Ohmmeter from the center pin of the dist connector to one side while a
friend
> cranks the starter. You should see the needle alternate between zero and
> infinity. Do the same for the other side. If either side fails to make
contact,
> pull the dist out and remove the FI trigger points. Clean them with a
clean
> piece of paper. DO NOT file them.
>
> Let us know what you find.
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>

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